Data loggers
In conclusion from the data loggers
- During the period under investigation the surface relative humidity on the damp floor (green line) is high, peaking at 100%RH and risking condensation on the coldest surfaces. Relative humidity is above the mould risk of 85%RH and at risk of condensation.
- The surface relative humidity is calculated considering the temperature difference between the data logger and cold surface at the time of the survey – this is an approximation and illustrative. You can check the difference more accurately with a laser thermometer on a cold night to update the interface tab in the spreadsheet.
- For each -1°C the relative humidity will be about 5%RH higher. The effect increases as the temperature difference between inside and outside increases such as when it’s cold.
- The grey line in the graph is called the dew point differential. It tells me that excess vapour is evaporating off the damp wall rather than within the kitchen as a whole, except brief periods. The most significant increases line up with warmer temperature and vice versa which tells me that evaporation from the wall is causing the increased vapour. Increased vapour is not affected b y external rain. This suggests to me that the cold water pipes are acting a bit like a dehumidifier, taking water out, passing it into the wall, which it then evaporates out of.
- It is interesting that there is no increase in the external (light blue) dew point relative to the kitchen despite some heavy rain around 26 – 27 September, this suggests that penetrating damp is not a root cause, at least not significantly.
- The example property dew point is in fact from my house, where I run a dehumidifier to maintain a healthy environment and reduce the need for and cost of heating. The difference between your dew points and the example property are narrowing suggesting ventilation improvement and or drying.
- Overall, there are clear signs of condensation being the root cause of dampness in the basement toilet, whether indirectly from a cistern leak or directly. Indeed the moisture around the cistern could in fact be caused by condensation, not a leak.
- Data loggers will be useful for ongoing monitoring following the implementation of my recommended actions. Working from home results in more cooking and more respiration. The energy crisis has resulted in people turning down the heat in unoccupied rooms and closing vents and windows. Risk of condensation can be reduced with a 20L+ dehumidifier.
Evidence & Illustrations
There is staining on the wall under the loft conversion stairs. The brown discolouration, resembling a teabag stain, indicates water flowing through the building material. The pattern is that of penetrating damp.
To be clear, the % is not the percentage of the walls capacity to hold moisture, it is merely an arbitrary scale which largely depends on the material composition of the wall. Think of it as a relative value. Most wall will be below 30% when dry.
You were hoping to see a gradual fall in the readings over time but cannot see that. My understand is 20 – 30 or below is dry. While the surface may be dry, the inside is not. There is a risk of timber from the stairs coming into contact with moisture and rotting.
As a note: this specific type of damp meter offers significant advantages over traditional two-pin meters in determine if there is dampness deep inside, and for diagnosing the root cause of dampness. Notably, the Doctor Meter provides both two-pin surface readings and radio frequency measurements, much like the Protimeter Survey Master. However, the Dr. Meter stands out for many reasons:
- Calibration: Unlike the Protimeter, it is calibrated to measure moisture in a variety of materials, offering more versatile usage.
- User Experience: The device avoids producing alarming noises unless the wall is exceedingly damp, making the assessment less intrusive.
- It is small: easier to get into tight corners, lift on a long selfie stick to the ceiling and less likely to scuff walls.
- Cost-Effectiveness: Priced at approximately £22 about 1/20th the cost of a Protimeter Surveymaster, it offers similar capabilities without breaking the bank. However, its affordability may discourage some professionals from using it, as they might question its reliability.
Render and masonry paint create an impermeable layer. This is effective as long as any cracks in the render are addressed, and the masonry is filled and paint reapplied regularly. Rainwater that penetrates external walls can cause bricks to become damp, leading to increased heat loss and subsequently, the risk of condensation.
As a general rule a horizontal crack will let in more moisture than a vertical crack, as more water can collect and flow off a large expanse of render, compared to a vertical line of render. Likewise more rain will accumulate lower down a wall. The thickness of the gap makes little difference, a a thin gap acts like a capillary sucking in water.
Render cracks are typically caused by expansion and contraction. Metal within a wall can expand and contract at a different rate to the render. It is likely that there is a large steel beam “RSJ” supporting the loft conversion. Alternatively it could be that the material is different, or the render was applied to the block work making up the top section of wall, but on top of the pre-existing render on the lower section of wall. Once render cracks appears, they should be filed and checked annually as they are liable to reappear after a long hot summer, or cold winter.
Openings affect the expansion and contraction of render.
Mould growth occurs where relative humidity exceeds 85%RH for more than six hours. Excessive humidity is usually due to insufficient ventilation, poor air circulation, and cold surfaces. As temperature rises, the air can hold more vapour. Conversely, as temperature drops, the air’s capacity to hold vapour decreases until it reaches the dew point at 100%RH, resulting in the formation of dew or condensation. A secondary cause of high relative humidity is a low temperature relative to the source of humidity.
Render cracks may merely dampen bricks inside the wall, causing heat loss, increasing the risk of mould, rather than penetrate through to the inside.
Passive vents are only beneficial when there is wind outside and the dew point of outside air is less that inside air, otehrwise they create heat loss increasing the risk of condensation and mould.
The thermal lens, where blue is about 5°C colder than yellow, highlights areas of heat loss.
You report seeing water pooling on the floor. There are calcium sulphate salts crystallising on the surface of the wall.
I tested and found a slight loss of pressure on the mainswater. There are many things that could cause this, including a leaking cistern. There is a strong possibility that the water was from condensation, see later.
Water appearing on a solid, impermeable ground cold floor is likely to come from condensation.
Despite the wall having been tanked and treated against rising dap, water is getting through and disrupting the base of the wall.
I doubt this is the root cause, however, the neighbour should, if nothing else for the sake of their property, repair their leaking gutters. The wall floor junction should be sealed on your property to reduce the risk of penetrating damp.
Cracks in the concrete should be sealed.
I doubt the rainwater gulley is leaking, the profile of internal damp does not match penetrating damp. However, like any drain, there is a possibility of a crack below the ground.
This is no surface disruption or brown staining, suggesting that water is not penetrating through this wall.
My main concern would be the bamboo. The rhizomes from common varieties of bamboo are considered by many invasive weed experts to be more damaging and disruptive to properties than Japanese Knotweed. I am not an invasive weed expert. As far as the external wall goes, it would be better to have a gap, but it may not be necessary if the wall has been tanked, as indicated by the “founding” member of what has now become known as the PCA, Property Care Association. I don’t believe their treatments are usually necessary, often causing more problems than they solve. However, the cost of rectifying damp proofing treatment is not normally warranted, it is better to focus on solving the root cause, condensation and a possible leak in this case.
To keep the property dry | |
|---|---|
| Repair render cracks | |
| Check and repair any cracks in the exterior walls to prevent water ingress. Address external render cracks by raking out, that is slightly enlarging and removing loose material and filling with an acrylic based caulk for small gaps and cement based mortar for larger gaps over 3mm. | £100 |
| Tighten the cistern fitting, wipe away moisture and check over a few hours for moisture to return. If it does return, then either replace the fitting or call a plumber to replace the fitting. | |
| Apply a cement or tarmac filler, as appropriate to cracks and gaps in the external drive. | £100 |
| Apply a fillet of a cement based mortar to the wall floor join outside, so that water is directed away from the wall. | £100 |
| Monitor vapour with data loggers | |
| Monitor relative humidity and temperature against the wall or ceiling to observe the effects of improvements, such as ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer (20m (2 Packs)) – already in place. In addition monitor improvements on the damp wall a pencil line and damp meter such as dr.wood moisture meter, logging improvements each month. Monitor relative humidity and temperature against the wall or ceiling to observe the effects of improvements, such as ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer (20m (2 Packs)) – already in place. In addition monitor improvements on the damp wall with a pencil line and damp meter such as dr.wood moisture meter, logging improvements each month. | |
| Target vapour from bathroom | |
| TIP: Keep the bathroom door closed with the fan running or window open until the humidity from the shower has subsided – typically at least 30 mins after the last shower. | |
| Target vapour from clothes drying | |
| Use a tumble dryer (like a heat pump), dry in a vented room with the door closed (possibly a bathroom with the extractor running or window open), or use a powerful dehumidifier. Don’t dry clothes in an unventilated room, such as the annex. | |
| Reduce vapour from cooking | |
| Cook with tops on pots and pans to reduce the production of vapour from cooking by 80%. | |
| Remedial actions – estimate of costs | £300 |
Actions if all else fails | |
|---|---|
| Monitor sub-floor humidity | |
| Use a hygrometer in the under floor section of the basement. The sub-floor relative humidity will fluctuate. It was normal during the survey. In the unlikely event that it rises, remaining above 85%RH for an extended period then check for leaks, see damp.ai. and if the leaks come from neighbours or outside property, then consider installing a fan into the sub-floor to blow air out. The easiest would be an inline fan directing air out. Keep the door closed to stop warm humid air from the house entering the sub-floor. | £5 |
| Use a dehumidifier | |
| Maintain relative humidity, especially at night when it’s cold outside, with a dehumidifier such as PureMate 20L/Day Portable & Compact Dehumidifier with 6.5 Litre (£179.99 Refrigerant), Duux Bora Smart Dehumidifier (DXDH02UK £300 Refrigerant) or Meaco DD8L Zambezi (£260 Desiccant – best for colder environments) – Which! Best buys. There are plenty of alternatives available. I choose daily and tank capacity, low noise, whether it has a pipe out and easy of programmable functions over other considerations such as weight and aesthetics. The technology is old and easy to manufacture. So if these brands are not available, you are sure to find another alternative. Evaluate based on daily capacity (20L minimum) and whether it has a continuous pipe out (use this to drip into a sink when away in winter). | £180 |
| Target vapour from cooking with an extractor fan | |
| Consider installing a kitchen extractor fan, ducted out. | |
| Improve bathroom ventilation | |
| Consider installing a continuous flow bathroom extractor fan such as Brookvent Airstream DMEV 100 HT (Continuous Running Extractor Fan with Humidistat Timer) – I have installed one in a rental property I own myself, that was bought cheaply because of mould. Although important to have an isolator, it can be sited in a way that doesn’t tempt tenants to use it. Ideally the vent should be located away from the door, closer to the shower. I would also install a bathroom spring to encourage tenants to keep the door closed. Ideally the ducting should be rigid, for reduced air resistance, and insulated to reduce risk of condensation in pipe. | £300 |
| Optimal actions – estimate of costs | £485 |
I conclude that penetrating damp and insufficient ventilation.
A render crack is causing ingress along the line of the loft extension. Insufficient ventilation from the bathroom and kitchen is causing condensation on the first floor around the vent; a leak in the toilet system and excess vapour are responsible for dampness near the toilet.
. By taking a root cause approach, rather than a focus on blocking the symptoms of damp the savings are likely to be around £10,000. This contrasts with typical damp proofing contractor recommendations such as chemical treatment for rising damp and untargeted ventilation, such as PIV systems.
Flood risk: No risk See Flood Risk (note most flood risk is not from groundwater).
Sub-soil rocks: Rocks with essentially no groundwater See British Geological Survey.
Therefore risk of Rising Dampremote possibility, see explanation by Dr Robyn Pender of Historic England.
I confirm that I inspected the property on . I conclude that penetrating damp and insufficient ventilation. All buildings can be exposed to unvented vapour and external dampness to some degree. You will mitigate the risk of damp if you follow all our recommendations. This report is intended to be read in full including supplementary links in this report. Observations and opinions must not be taken in isolation. Given the right weather conditions almost any house can be affected by rain. Like any building, you need to be aware of the risks of damp arising in the future and should plan a programme of monitoring, prevention and maintenance accordingly. Damp Surveys Ltd reports are designed to provide you with an informed, independent expert opinion as to the cause of dampness in the property, together with any recommendations for further investigation or remedial work. We do not warrant any findings in this report unless we enter into a separate warranty agreement with you.
The survey was conducted during daylight hours. Damp will be more noticeable at night and when the weather is colder and more humid. Gutters are more likely to fail when full of leaves and during periods of prolonged rain and adverse wind. We make best endeavours but cannot guarantee being able to identify all forms of damp, rot and insect infestation affecting the property.
We carried out a careful and thorough inspection of as much of the property as was accessible. However, when a full inspection is not possible, we make a professional judgement regarding the likelihood of a defect being present. In certain circumstances, this may lead to a recommendation for further action to open up an area for additional investigation. We were unable to inspect the entire roof, all the guttering, and some of the drains. Similarly, inspection of woodwork or other parts of the structure that were covered, unexposed, poorly lit or inaccessible such as in the loft, cellar, or sub-floor void was not possible, and therefore we are unable to assert that such parts of the property are free from defect. There were no obvious signs of damp resulting from these limitations
Negligence claims must be made within 90 days of the damp survey site visit. Clients must make best endeavours to monitor humidity and temperature on a damp wall and the closest source of humidity, by purchasing and placing two data loggers for example the Smart Hygrometer measuring humidity on the wall and nearest source of vapour, before and after following our recommendations. These data loggers have sufficient memory capacity to store 90 days of data.
This report is for the sole use of the client (named on the invoice, but omitted here for anonymity) for whom the survey was undertaken and can only be relied upon for 90 days from the survey date. Unless expressly stated otherwise in this report, nothing in this report confers or is intended to confer any rights on any third party pursuant to the Contracts (Rights of Third Parties) Act 1999.
Simon Hichens
Site visit
Simon Hichens BSc Chemistry RICS Qualified Expert Witness (Chartered Surveyors)
PCA Certificated Surveyor of Dampness & Timber in Buildings (Property Care Association)
Damp Surveys Ltd, 119 Longton Ave London SE26 6RF Reg. 10977488 (England & Wales)
Founder of damp.aï & Member of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB)
Our damp surveys are designed to provide a holistic diagnosis that identifies and deals with causes rather than a focus on symptoms. Symptoms will disappear over time, once damp is stopped at source. We look for risks of dampness, but unless moisture is present, we can’t guarantee to identify all risks of future moisture. Our reports:
- identify root cause(s) of major unwanted dampness within the property,
- identify major symptoms of unwanted dampness,
- identify major structural damage caused by dampness,
- recommend actions and estimated costs to stop damp at source and mitigate its effects,
- recognise that treating damp is often a staged approach, treating obvious causes first.
Understanding damp
For survey purposes, damp is defined as unwanted water. Water brings life. We need it. Unfortunately, fungus and insects also thrive in water. While a damp wall can cause decorative spoiling, it is not moisture, but the life it brings that causes the greatest concern in the home environment. FACT: vapour causes 85% of residential damp problems.
Independence and Methodology
Our only income is through damp survey fees. We are independent of contractors and never profit from remedial work. We do not receive or pay any fees or other inducements. Our motivation is peace of mind and practical, durable solutions. We use an array of equipment to identify the root cause of damp within walls. Our damp surveys follow guidance from RICS, Historic England and PCA joint position statement and support RICS’s highest standard, level 3 “Home Survey Standard” (HSS).
During the survey we assess likelihood of rising damp*, mainswater leak, penetrating damp, condensation, timber rot and woodworm. We profile the damp patches and consider the likely sources of dampness and test ventilation against building regulations requirements. We consider changes to the property and factors just before the first sighting of damp.
- Weather: dry overcast
- Property: 1920 or 30’s semi-detached house with basement garage, now converted
- Background: The property suffers from multiple damp issues, primarily on the flank wall and the first floor around the vent, as well as in the ground floor basement.
- Damp treatment: Despite the low risk of rising damp, there has been an attempt at chemical treatment against rising damp. Rising damp treatment is normally a sign of insufficient ventilation. The walls have been drilled into by about 200mm and injected with damp proofing chemicals. In theory the chemicals are absorbed into the brick pores reducing the bricks ability to absorb moisture. Walls are replaced with damp proofers slurry. This can cause problems with absorption imbalance, resulting in increased condensation on other walls or vapour becoming absorbed and trapped behind the slurry. There was evidence of surface condensation in areas probably not treated with replacement plaster but no evidence of trapped vapour. The solution is through ventilation and humidity control.
- Changes: Loft and basement conversions, the flank wall render has been replaced
- Occupancy: Couple, mainly at home
- Primary damp concern: The primary damp issue is penetrating damp on the flank wall due to cracks in the render.
- Other damp concerns: Damage to basement wall having been damp proofed, possibly linked to water pooling on basement floor
- Compounding: Zoned heating, where the basement intermittently joined to rest of property, but not necessarily heated to the same degree.
- Concern: You were concerned about damp from the driveway
- Sub-floor humidity: The sub-floor void was damp and should be monitored.
- Exterior comment: There was a visible render crack
- Penetrating damp assessment: Internal dampness lined up with external water marks, therefore we conclude that penetrating damp caused some internal damp.
- Drains: The drains are of no special concern.
- Leak signs: No suspicion of a mains water leak
- Leak assessment: There are no obvious signs of a significant mains or wastewater leak.
- Loft: The loft has been converted.
- Timber assessment: There are no suspicions of significant timber decay.
- Last dry: Dampness followed soon after the loft conversion.
W.H.O. indoor air quality guidelines
“Management of moisture requires proper control of temperature and ventilation to avoid excess humidity, condensation on surfaces and excess moisture in materials. Ventilation should be distributed effectively throughout spaces, and stagnant air zones should be avoided.”
FACT: Houses contain 30 – 40 litres of water as vapour typically. Each day, each occupant adds on average about 1.5 litres as follows:
- Each shower results in 1/2L condensing (each additional shower in a series won’t add as much as the first, so long as the door is kept closed)
- Vapour from drying clothes releases about ½ litre per day if dried indoors
- Respiration releases about ¾ litre per day (of which ¼ l at night)
- Cooking produces about ¼ litre per day per person
- Unvented vapour can cause condensation, mould and allergenic dust mites. The simple rule for keeping your property dry and mould free is;
- Vent out as much vapour as produced, each and every day!
- Central heating and double-glazing reduce background ventilation. To overcome this you should use mechanical extractors. Where properties are rented, consider using monitoring devices (such as a Govee WIFI hygrometer) and if necessary, install continuous flow extractors, but beware there can be a thermal cost caused by continuous heat lost.
FACTS about Condensation and Mould
- FACT: warm air holds more water vapour than cold air. The warmer it is, the more air’s capacity to hold water vapour. Conversely the colder it is, the less capacity, until air cannot hold any more vapour. We call that the dew point or 100%RH. As soon air reaches capacity, condensation will form on the coldest surfaces.
- FACT: Mould and dust mites
- FACT: Mould only grows when air is humid for long periods. In the occupied home environment, it is 6 hours over 85% RH. For properties that are unoccupied for long periods, it is 75% RH for many days of consistent and high humidity. Avoid allowing the surface relative humidity of cold walls to exceed 85% RH by ventilating, dehumidifying, insulating, and ensuring airflow, particularly in cold corners, base of walls and ceilings, eaves, and cold window and door reveals.
- FACT: Dust mites are microscopic insects that can cause allergies. They grow in similar conditions to mould. So ventilate more to avoid allergies.
- FACT: Health concerns: There are no health and safety issues from damp noted. It is in the occupier’s interests to keep a property properly ventilated or dehumidified and temperatures above the dew and mould points throughout the property, thereby reducing the health risk associated with dust mites, bacteria, protozoans, as well as decorative spoiling caused by mould.
TIPS To Stay Condensation and Mould Free
- TIP: Reduce the production of vapour at source:
- TIP: Keep bathroom extractor fans running, or window open for at least 30 minutes.
- TIP: Keep bathroom doors closed at all times, and bathroom windows open safely.
- TIP: When filling the bath, run the cold water first then add the hot.
- TIP: Dry clothes outside, in a dryer, in a closed room with a dehumidifier or window open, never on radiators or heated rail without a door closed and a means of removing the vapour.
- TIP: Cook with tops on pots and pans, avoiding excessive boiling.
- TIP: Keep the kitchen door closed and extractor fan on where possible.
- TIP:Mechanical vents are best, but if you only have passive vents, such as a whole in the wall or chimney, then vents open with space for air to move, insulate where possible.
- TIP: Keep trickle vents open or alternatively, open windows on safety locks.
- TIP: Stop mould forming:
* Maintain external wall temperatures above 12°C, with low background heating.
* Declutter leaving space for warm air to circulate around cold surfaces.
* Where possible, avoid placing wardrobes and furniture against external walls.
* Avoid overfilling wardrobes and cupboards as it restricts air circulation.
* Use dehumidifiers or small wardrobe dehumidifying bags and replace regularly.
* Wipe mould and condensation off walls and clothes as soon as it appears. - TIP: Monitor relative humidity
* We recommend monitoring temperature and relative humidity with a data logger to see what is happening.
RICS, PCA, HISTORIC ENGLAND JPS REPORT
RICS (Royal Institute of Chartered Surveyors), Historic England (a public trust protecting sites of historic interest) and the Property Care Association (an association of mainly damp proofers) set out a Joint Position Statement (JPS), in September 2022 – see below.There has long been disagreement about the causes of damp amongst surveyors. Historic England surveyors represent one extreme. They typically do not believe rising damp is a likely cause of internal dampness and rarely recommend altering walls to alleviate damp. By contrast PCA surveyors typically recommend rising damp treatment whenever they see dampness at the base of a wall and often recommend altering a building. RICS surveyors tend to be somewhere near the centre of these extremes. However, unlike Historic England and PCA surveyors, they rarely specialise in damp and often refer issues to PCA surveyors. We and most other independent surveyors are more closely aligned with Historic England’s position except that we are perhaps more pragmatic. For example, if a hole in the wall is the optimum way of solving internal dampness, then we will recommend it, but not otherwise.
JPS questions and answers
In addition to the content typically included in a professional and impartial survey report (e.g. client, surveyor and property details; limitations and exclusions), the report should include the following information:1 A summary of the surveyor’s observations, including an Assessment of Significance.
The primary damp issue was caused by penetrating damp. It is ongoing, caused by a render crack. There are ongoing condensation issues and a leaking cistern.
2 The importance of regular building maintenance and how a lack of even basic maintenance can lead to problems arising. This is especially important and relevant to roofs, gutters, hidden gutters, rainwater disposal and changes in external ground levels.
As is common with all buildings, gutters and other rainwater goods should be checked twice annually, ideally during or soon after a rainstorm, for evidence of overflow and rain not being dispersed properly from the property. You should also check that there is no flow of water flow during periods of absence for signs of a leak, for instance, by note the number on the mains water meter outside your house. The render will need filling and regular checking. The external wall needs a fillet of cement.
3 An impartial diagnosis of the damp problem, which should be clearly explained and laid out systematically to communicate the relevant risks to the reader.
Risks of damage to wall and potentially rotten timber stair case to loft will be ongoing until the root cause has been dealt with.
4 Where recommendations for the repair and recovery of moisture-affected structures are stated, the solutions should be clearly explained and prioritised as appropriate.
The solutions are explained in the Recommendations section. The primary recommendation is Repair render cracks, fix leak and ventilate.
5 The client should be provided with alternative options for which each should include advantages and disadvantages and the relevant cost and time implications.
This question is primarily directed at PCA damp proofers, to encourage them to consider methods that address the source of water not just the symptoms, such as by hacking off plaster and replacing it with slurry. You can sometimes take this damp proofing approach with short-term success. However, water will eventually find its way through. Furthermore, treatment is disruptive resulting in high cost and a poor finish, with no worthwhile guarantee of success. It likely to lower the value of the property. In our opinion you are better off trying to stop the water at its source, as we recommend. ” No alternatives required or appropriate.
6 Where monitoring and staged interventions are appropriate or beneficial, the client should be informed of the reasons for these options, together with the likely cost and time implications of such recovery strategies.
Properties should be monitored for humidity and temperature using data loggers, see datalogger section of this report. The cost of data loggers is currently less than £20 for two, aim to keep the dew point, as shown on the app screen of each logger (bottom centre on the SensorBlue), within 3°C of the external temperature, especially at night (use ventilation and/or dehumidification to reduce the internal dew point – measure external conditions or refer to weather forecasts for night-time temperatures, such as BBC Weather – a short explanation is; that this will make sure the relative humidity of all surfaces will be below the mould point even if poorly insulated). We also suggest noting values monthly using a multi-functional radio wave and conductance damp meter costing about £24 to monitor and map damp patches on internal walls. This way you can monitoring the dry progress, which typically takes 1 month per 25mm thickness of walls and more if coated. This helps determine if the root cause has been fixed or there is an additional or new source of water, and therefore more actions are required. Ideally this should be started before or soon after starting our recommendations and for about a year, repeating monthly to check progress. Monitor visually and with a radio damp meter and data loggers, see recommendations.
7 Where appropriate, clearly state whether the building concerned represents a financial risk to the buyer or lender and why.
The property is not the subject of a sale. In our opinion, there is no material financial risk once you have followed our recommendations.
8 Any conflicts of interest should be clearly stated.
There is no conflict of interest. We never profit from our recommendations.
As a background, although we charge a fee for undertaking damp surveys, profit is not our primary motivator. We are motivated to:
- solve damp problems in properties,
- encourage clients to spend money wisely for the protection of the property and, where possible to lower the environmental impact,
- stop or at least play our part to reduce the over-diagnosis of rising damp and so called “damp proofing” treatment by replacing plaster with chemicals and slurry, rather than dealing with the root cause.
| Question and Answers |
|---|
| Q: I was looking at dehumidifiers for the basement. There is one called Bora Smart by Duux which I liked the look of. Does it have the right kind of power level? |
| A:I don’t know it specifically, but at 20L/day should be ideal. Check that is can be drained out, and look for good tank capacity. I like 6 L. |
| Q: Should I close the door between the “cellar” at the front and the basement room at the rear? I usually close it about this time of year but have kept it open while we were collecting data. |
| A:It’s best to keep spaces with different atmospheric conditions (heat and humidity) separated, e.g., closed doors, and each suitably ventilated or dehumidified, and monitored in cold isolated corners. |
| Q: What level of humidity should I set the dehumidifier to maintain? I use 65%RH in a central location. |
| A:The key is surface relative humidity; roughly every 1°C drop increases relative humidity by 5%RH. |
Relevant examples of properties with similar damp issues: electric-sockets
[mwai_chatbot_v2 id=”default”]Ask A.I. about your report, in the “Type your message” you could ask:
What does the damp report say are the main causes of damp and main actions to stop damp?
¿Qué dice el informe de humedad sobre las principales causas de la humedad y las principales acciones para detenerla?
潮湿报告说什么是潮湿的主要原因和防止潮湿的主要措施？
नमी की रिपोर्ट के अनुसार नमी के मुख्य कारण और नमी को रोकने के लिए मुख्य कार्य क्या हैं?
Que dit le rapport sur l’humidité concernant les principales causes de l’humidité et les principales actions pour l’arrêter?
Was sagt der Feuchtigkeitsbericht über die Hauptursachen von Feuchtigkeit und die Hauptmaßnahmen zur Bekämpfung von Feuchtigkeit?
Что говорится в отчете о влажности о основных причинах влажности и основных действиях по ее устранению?
Cosa dice il rapporto sull’umidità riguardo le principali cause dell’umidità e le principali azioni per fermarla?