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Data loggers
This graph comes from data loggers from another property, also with complex condensation issues.
In conclusion from the data loggers – from another property
- During the period under investigation the surface relative humidity on the damp floor (green line) is high, peaking around 95%RH and probably condensing on the coldest surfaces. Relative humidity is above the mould risk of 85%RH and at risk of condensation.
- The surface relative humidity is calculated considering the temperature difference between the data logger and cold surface at the time of the survey – this is an approximation and illustrative. You can check the difference more accurately with a laser thermometer on a cold night to update the interface tab in the spreadsheet.
- For each -1°C the relative humidity will be about 5%RH higher. The effect increases as the temperature difference between inside and outside increases such as when it’s cold.
- The grey line in the graph is called the dew point differential. It tells me that excess vapour is evaporating off the damp floor rather than kitchen, except for 26 September. Cooking with tops on pots and pans would be beneficial.
- It is interesting that there is no increase in dew point in the living relative to the kitchen or outside despite some heavy rain around 26 – 27 September, this suggests that penetrating damp is not a root cause, at least not directly.
- The example property dew point is in fact from my house, where I run a dehumidifier to maintain a healthy environment and reduce the need for and cost of heating. The difference between your dew points and the example property are narrowing suggesting ventilation improvement and or drying.
Overall, there clear signs of condensation on a cold impermeable surface, being the root cause. Data loggers will be useful for ongoing monitoring following the implementation of my recommended actions. Working from home results in more cooking and more respiration. The energy crisis has resulted in people turning down the heat in unoccupied rooms and closing vents and windows. Risk can be reduced with a 20L+ dehumidifier.
Evidence & Illustrations
Property type: The property is a 2 storey + basement end terraced period property of solid
brick construction.
Background summary:
I. Historical Context
- 2006: Property acquired.
- 2007: Initial damp and mould issues surfaced in the rear back bedroom, remedied by Builders.
- 2010: Transition to rental property; mould and damp issues in kitchen prompted gutter and ventilation improvements by Builders.
- 2011-2016: Continued damp proofing and exterior maintenance, including damp proofing course, repointing, and re-rendering of walls.
- 2016-2019: Upgrades including bathroom ventilation, window replacements to mitigate damp and mould.
- 2022-2023: Recent damp issues prompted bathroom renovation, window and door replacements.
II. Observations
- Rear Small Bedroom:
- Existing measures: Insulated board, waterproof render, and an electrical fan.
- Issue: Persistent moisture due to condensation and potential gutter overflow.
- Front Reception:
- Existing measures: Damp course, waterproof render on the north-facing wall.
- Issue: High damp readings despite previous interventions.
- Kitchen:
- Existing measures: Damp proof course, waterproof render on one wall.
- Issue: Continued condensation; undressed issues on the wall with French doors.
- Front Main Bedroom:
- Issue: Mould along the ceiling; not covered in the original report.
- Basement:
- Existing measures: Black pitch cover, wrongly constituted render.
- Issue: Possible significant source of house moisture due to inadequate tanking.
III. Recommendations
- Rear Small Bedroom:
- Address gutter overflow to prevent external water ingress.
- Maintain regular checks on fan operation and consider replacing with a quieter unit to encourage tenant use.
- Front Reception:
- Conduct further analysis to understand the cause of persistent dampness despite previous interventions.
- Implement suggested works from the recent survey, including adjusting curtain lengths to prevent dampness.
- Kitchen:
- Proceed with proposed work on the French doors wall and discuss the merit of bricking in the wrongly positioned vent.
- Front Main Bedroom:
- Investigate the cause of mould along the ceiling, possibly extending the survey to cover this area.
- Basement:
- Consult on tanking options to address dampness and prevent further moisture seepage into the house.
- General:
- Consider the application of mould-resistant and thermal paint throughout the interior as a preventive measure against damp and mould.
IV. Estimated Costs by Damp-proofing Builders, note there was inconclusive evidence, the DPC has already been injected and the quote does not include redecoration.
- Reception Room:
- Damp Proof Course (DPC) injection, new waterproof render and finish: £6,500.00 + VAT.
- 1st Floor Bedroom:
- Insulated plasterboard and finish plaster: £2,100.00 + VAT.
Damp Proofing Builder’s (“damp proofers”) recommendations:
- 1st floor bedroom – We would recommend installing a high-performance insulated plasterboard followed by re-plastering to the three external walls to prevent mould from forming behind beds and wardrobes and other furniture during the winter months. The existing fan should be removed and ventilation be provided through passive ventilation. You have to arrange for a third party to install vent cover on both sides of the hole and fit new skirting following the replastering. You should also arrange for electrical cables and pipework to be adjusted, to account for the increased thickness of the walls.
My response to the Damp-proofing Builder:
- By insulated plasterboard I assume the Damp-Proofers are talking about PIR, a polycarbonate plasterboard. The plasterboard will go a long way to stopping the damp and mould showing on the surface. But moisture will continue to dampen the wall deep inside. The risk is that moisture causes heat loss and potentially timber damp. Either way it is better to deal with the root cause, which is a combination of penetrating damp and condensation.
- s a general rule passive vents are not good as they don’t control the flow of air. It is much better to ventilate mechanically at the source of vapour production: bathroom, kitchen, drying clothes and respiration (although harder to target).
- It should be noted that while the planned works will cost around £10,000 there are many other works that need to take place including new skirting and redecoration.
- That walls will change their thickness, leading to aesthetic concerns as well as electrical cables and pipework to be adjusted.
- The physical damp proof membrane to the walls may be appropriate if underground and there was no suitable alternative.
- Blocking passive vents is a good idea, so long as adequate active ventilation is provided. Make sure that the material blocking up passive vents is sufficiently insulated, otherwise the surface result in localised heat loss leading to localised condensation and mould risk.
- DPC injection be carried out to 1.5 m, as marked on our drawing – I assume this means injecting a Siloxane Thixotropic cream into the perps. (perpendicular between bricks) to slow the rise of water, in an attempt to stop rising damp. The siloxane does slow the flow of water, but this assumes that rising damp from groundwater is the root cause of damp in this property, which it is not. See links off this report.
As is typical, the damp proofers recommend hacking off the exiting absorbent plaster replacing it with low permeability “waterproof render”, also known as damp proofers slurry. There are two reasons for this, a) if the chemical DPC doesn’t stop damp, then the slurry will at least hide it for some time, b) although I didn’t seen any signs of hygroscopic salts in the property, there maybe some around the chimney breast, they come from the burning of coal etc. Slurry can hide hygroscopic salts, but there are far cheaper, less disruptive and more effective methods, such as using an oil based primer, e.g. Zinsser B.I.N..
Reducing the height of the curtains in the bay window to the window sill, not continue to the ground, is an interesting recommendations. It would improve the flow of air thereby reducing the build up of surface relative humidity. Again this is not dealing with the root cause, which in the case of the bay is penetrating damp, made worse by poor ventilation and natural heat loss. - The recommendation to arrange for a third party, to address external rainwater goods, re pointing and decoration to prevent penetrative moisture, to include checking of all subfloor ventilation to ensure they are clear of obstruction, is sound and the root cause of much of the damp.
- QANW (Quality Assured National Warranties) guarantee is a warranty scheme in the UK that provides insurance protection to consumers who have had home improvement work carried out on their properties, including damp proofing. This warranty comes into effect if the original contractor is unable to honour their own guarantee, often due to insolvency. It provides a level of financial protection and peace of mind for consumers. Builders, including damp proofers have a habit of liquidating themselves when the cost of repairing past client properties becomes less economically attractive than liquidating and restarting under a new name. You should note that guarantees or warrantees have limited value as they are against rising damp, but since you don’t have rising damp the risk to the damp proofers and guarantor is low.
Note the damp proofers survey does say there has been previous damp proofing, but does not attempt to say why it has presumably “failed” and why their method is likely to succeed.
The damp patch of primary concern is vertical in the corner of the kitchen. There is slight staining. The brown discolouration, resembling a teabag stain, indicates water flowing through the building material. In this case, it’s caused by rainwater and is called penetrating damp.
Or, and this might be more likely in your case, that remnants of the original paint were not entirely removed and were painted over, creating an inconsistent layer. This inconsistency results in water becoming trapped behind the old paint. Either way, some part of the absorbent wall are exposed. This will cause rainwater to be absorbed into the wall, some water may migrate to the inside, typically this will cause a light brown stain, or dark brown stain if passing through timber. Even if rain doesn’t penetrate through, it can cause heat loss resulting in poor insulation, increasing surface relative humidity and therefore the risk of condensation and mould.
1) The heat recovery is marginal. Having measured the outflow in winter, I would say at best the heat recovery is 50%, not especially good from the perspective of energy lost to the outside and or consumed per litre of vapour removed compared to good bathroom and kitchen extractor fans.
2) The unit is untargeted on the source of the vapour, which in this case is the bathroom, with some additional respiration.
3) The unit is manual and noisy. It is unlikely that the tenants used it, not least because it would have cost them money to run it.
In my view the dampness in the cellar, poor ventilation and the damp proofed walls are not the root causes of the dampness above ground. They may have been the reason for the original damp proofing and may be exacerbating heat loss in the walls, but it is insufficient ventilation and penetrating damp that are the primary root causes.
Remedial actions necessary to keep the property dry | |
|---|---|
Remove mould | |
| Consider sanding down mould where dry, and removing it with either bleach or anti-mould foam. I personally use HG Mould Remover Foam Spray, but imagine there is no major difference between brands. | £200 |
Improve external paintwork | |
| Wire brush and repaint damaged paintwork using at least two coats of paint that are as impermeable as the original. For instance, consider Zinsser external masonry paint. If you’re dealing with damaged pointing while painting the wall, use cement-based mortar for repairs. When it comes to filling gaps and cracks around your property, such as those around the window sill, opt for external acrylic filler for small gaps and impermeable cement-based mortar for larger cracks. For the garden wall attached to the rear wall, you have two practical options. You can either use flashing or, as a more pragmatic choice, apply impermeable paint. This will help prevent moisture absorption into the wall. I personally would remove the bricks altogether, if you want you can attach timber to the top of the frame. I would also temporarily remove the timber door frame, paint behind it with an oil based primer and impermeable masonry paint, before putting the gate back. | £2,000 |
Remove plant from wall | |
| Remove all plants from front wall and reshape the window sill, including a drip groove (using an angle grinder or chisel). | £2,000 |
Insulate condensation and mouldy external walls | |
| Install insulation such as thermal lining paper like Wallrock with their adhesive. Follow installation instructions carefully. Minimize gaps during installation and fill them for consistent insulation. This prepares the wall for a quality paint finish, addressing both insulation and aesthetics. Consider adding insulated coving, or paint it with anti-mould paint. | £2,000 |
Monitor relative humidity and temperature | |
| Monitor relative humidity and temperature against the wall or ceiling to observe the effects of improvements, such as ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer (20m (2 Packs)) – see surveyor.tips/datalogger (for landlords WIFI Hygrometer Thermometer Sensor: Smart Temperature Humidity Monitor, with Remote Monitor and TUYA APP £42 for 4). Monitor improvement in damp with a simple damp meter (Damp Meter, Dr.meter Wood Moisture Meter £21) logging improvements each month. | £40 |
Duct out kitchen extractor fan | |
| Clean grease from the ducting attachment to the kitchen extractor hood. Reinstall the ducting, securing it with gaffer tape or a similar adhesive. If possible, ensure that air flows out of the exit vent correctly, without leaking from the hood’s sides. Perform this test every few months. Always emphasize to occupants the importance of using the kitchen extractor fan during cooking. | £10 |
Check flow of rainwater | |
| Check all rainwater goods, gutters, downpipes, drains etc for overflow during a rainstorm and repair as required, I suspect there is a drip to the front. Remove all plants attached to the wall. | £50 |
Use a dehumidifier | |
| Maintain relative humidity, especially at night when it’s cold outside, with a dehumidifier such as PureMate 20L/Day Portable & Compact Dehumidifier with 6.5 Litre (£179.99 Refrigerant), Duux Bora Smart Dehumidifier (DXDH02UK £300 Refrigerant) or Meaco DD8L Zambezi (£260 Desiccant – best for colder environments) – Which! Best buys. There are plenty of alternatives available. I choose daily capacity and tank capacity, low noise, whether it has a pipe out and ease of programmable functions over other considerations such as weight and aesthetics. The technology is old and easy to manufacture. So if the above brands are not available, you are sure to find another alternative. Evaluate based on daily capacity (20L minimum) and whether it has a continuous pipe out (use this to drip into a sink when away in winter). This is important if leaving a property empty, when it is cold at night or there has been a history of damp issues. Ask a tenant to work with you, such as decanting daily and offer to pay, typically around £1 per day. If used when the property is vacant, make sure to pipe out water safely such as sitting in a shower, bath or kitchen sink, with the drain piped to the waste. | £180 |
Reduce damp penetrating base of wall | |
| Run a fillet of a triangular cement-based mortar, along the wall base of the external wall, such as the flank wall, to reduce the rainwater able to seep into the cellar (basement). | £200 |
Improve sub-floor ventilation | |
| Increasing ventilation is tricky as there is limited accessibility in the cellar or above ground. I would use an inline fan, such as the Kair MultiFan In Line Fan 100mm Standard (no timer, £37.49 on Amazon), made to extract from bathrooms through lofts use a rigid duct from the centre of the cellar out through the visible air brick. I would attach it to a timer having it come on at night for say 6 hours from 11pm until 5am. Consider putting wire mesh on the end to stop rodents. [A company called ELTA made a Sub-Floor Ventilation Fan, which many clients with similar issues have installed with success, but ELTA have been closed down. This site seems to offer the same unit: https://www.builders-superstore.co.uk/product/ventilation-fan-sub-floor-mains-powered/ is an alternative if there is space above ground]. | £200 |
Remedial actions – estimate of costs | £6,880 |
Optimal actions to help remain damp free (if all esle fails) | |
|---|---|
Repair leak under shower | |
| Ask the bathroom installer to return to fix the grout cracks and cracked, probably leaking seals and check the bathroom waste. | £300 |
Improve ventilation | |
| Consider installing a continuous flow bathroom extractor fan such as Brookvent Airstream DMEV 100 HT (Continuous Running Extractor Fan with Humidistat Timer) – I have installed one in a rental property I own myself, that was bought cheaply because of mould. Although important to have an isolator, it can be sited in a way that doesn’t tempt tenants to use it. Ideally the vent should be located away from the door, closer to the shower. I would also install a bathroom spring to encourage tenants to keep the door closed. Ideally the ducting should be rigid, for reduced air resistance, and insulated to reduce risk of condensation in pipe. | £300 |
Consider evening out loft insulation | |
| Modern loft insulation should be double ply (that is laid in one direction, and overlaid across with two sets of 150 – 200mm insulation. The should be no uninsulated zones and insulation should be pushed deep into the eaves. | £100 |
Consider rerouting front drain | |
| There is a high risk the front drain shared, but on the neighbour’s side is broken underground (this could also be true of the rear drain). At least short-term, I would bypass the front rainwater drain by extending the down-pipe with an elbow and horizontal 2M pipe to the front garden or street (use an 90° elbow and downpipe). Consider instructing a CCTV drain company to check the drains underground (cost circ. £400). I would instruct one that can fix drains using a Drain sleeving system. | £50 |
Consider painting anti-condensation | |
| Consider painting anti-condensation (e.g. DryZone by Safeguard on Amazon 5L £53.70) or anti-mould paint onto walls vulnerable to condensation or mould (top coat only), bathroom would be the obvious place. | £200 |
Consider blocking up passive vents | |
| As a general rule, I don’t advise reversing previous work, as there could be a good reason for it. For example: damp proofers’ slurry is typically unhelpful as it reduces the natural absorption of walls (reducing the breathability), making other walls more vulnerable. However, if there were hygroscopic salts, then slurry is a way of blocking these, albeit expensive, disruptive, over-engineered, and not as good as an oil-based primer like Zinsser B.I.N. Likewise PIR insulation is not ideal as it risks timber; however, the risk is low and presumably the risk is on the builders if timber does rot. Given the builder’s are presumably carrying the risk, it probably is not economically worth replacing the PIR with vapour permiable woodfibre insulation. Passive vents could be blocked up, but if so, make sure to insulated and protect the outside from rain. | |
Remedial actions – estimate of total costs | £950 |
I conclude that there was condensation and mould caused by insufficient ventilation and thermal imbalance made worse by water penetrating through building elements..
When water passes through a brick wall or passed timber, it leaves a brown stain on the inside. Furthermore mould growth results from poor ventilation. Most of your damp is colourless or exhibits mould spores. I suspect this property has always been at risk of condensation because the double glazing has no trickle vents and as an end of terrace property has a large expanse of cold flank wall..
By taking a root cause approach, rather than a focus on blocking the symptoms of damp the savings are likely to be around £10,000. This contrasts with typical damp proofing contractor recommendations such as chemical treatment for rising damp and untargeted ventilation, such as PIV systems.
Flood risk: Risk of surface water (i.e. penetrating damp from rainwater, not rising damp from groundwater) See Flood Risk (note most flood risk is not from groundwater).
Sub-soil rocks: Rocks with essentially no groundwater See British Geological Survey.
Therefore risk of Rising Damprising damp is highly unlikely, see explanation by Dr Robyn Pender of Historic England.
I confirm that I inspected the property on 22 Sep ’23 08:00. I conclude that there was condensation and mould caused by insufficient ventilation and thermal imbalance made worse by water penetrating through building elements.. All buildings can be exposed to unvented vapour and external dampness to some degree. You will mitigate the risk of damp if you follow all our recommendations. This report is intended to be read in full including supplementary links in this report. Observations and opinions must not be taken in isolation. Given the right weather conditions almost any house can be affected by rain. Like any building, you need to be aware of the risks of damp arising in the future and should plan a programme of monitoring, prevention and maintenance accordingly. Damp Surveys Ltd reports are designed to provide you with an informed, independent expert opinion as to the cause of dampness in the property, together with any recommendations for further investigation or remedial work. We do not warrant any findings in this report unless we enter into a separate warranty agreement with you.
The survey was conducted during daylight hours. Damp will be more noticeable at night and when the weather is colder and more humid. Gutters are more likely to fail when full of leaves and during periods of prolonged rain and adverse wind. We make best endeavours but cannot guarantee being able to identify all forms of damp, rot and insect infestation affecting the property.
We carried out a careful and thorough inspection of as much of the property as was accessible. However, when a full inspection is not possible, we make a professional judgement regarding the likelihood of a defect being present. In certain circumstances, this may lead to a recommendation for further action to open up an area for additional investigation. We were unable to inspect the entire roof, all the guttering, and some of the drains. Similarly, inspection of woodwork or other parts of the structure that were covered, unexposed, poorly lit or inaccessible such as in the loft, cellar, or sub-floor void was not possible, and therefore we are unable to assert that such parts of the property are free from defect. There were no obvious signs of damp resulting from these limitations
Negligence claims must be made within 90 days of the damp survey site visit. Clients must make best endeavours to monitor humidity and temperature on a damp wall and the closest source of humidity, by purchasing and placing two dataloggers for example the Smart Hygrometer measuring humidity on the wall and nearest source of vapour, before and after following our recommendations. These dataloggers have sufficient memory capacity to store 90 days of data.
This report is for the sole use of the client (named on the invoice, but omitted here for anonymity) for whom the survey was undertaken and can only be relied upon for 90 days from the survey date. Unless expressly stated otherwise in this report, nothing in this report confers or is intended to confer any rights on any third party pursuant to the Contracts (Rights of Third Parties) Act 1999.
Simon Hichens
Site visit 22 Sep ’23 08:00
Simon Hichens BSc Chemistry RICS Qualified Expert Witness (Chartered Surveyors)
PCA Certificated Surveyor of Dampness & Timber in Buildings (Property Care Association)
Damp Surveys Ltd, 119 Longton Ave London SE26 6RF Reg. 10977488 (England & Wales)
Founder of damp.aï & Member of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB)
Our damp surveys are designed to provide a holistic diagnosis that identifies and deals with causes rather than a focus on symptoms. Symptoms will disappear over time, once damp is stopped at source. We look for risks of dampness, but unless moisture is present, we can’t guarantee to identify all risks of future moisture. Our reports:
- identify root cause(s) of major unwanted dampness within the property,
- identify major symptoms of unwanted dampness,
- identify major structural damage caused by dampness,
- recommend actions and estimated costs to stop damp at source and mitigate its effects,
- recognise that treating damp is often a staged approach, treating obvious causes first.
Independence and Methodology
Our only income is through damp survey fees. We are independent of contractors and never profit from remedial work. We do not receive or pay any fees or other inducements. Our motivation is peace of mind and practical, durable solutions. We use an array of equipment to identify the root cause of damp within walls. Our damp surveys follow guidance from RICS, Historic England and PCA joint position statement and support RICS’s highest standard, level 3 “Home Survey Standard” (HSS).
During the survey we assess likelihood of rising damp*, mainswater leak, penetrating damp, condensation, timber rot and woodworm. We profile the damp patches and consider the likely sources of dampness and test ventilation against building regulations requirements. We consider changes to the property and factors just before the first sighting of damp.
For survey purposes, damp is defined as unwanted water. Water brings life. We need it. Unfortunately, fungus and insects also thrive in water. While a damp wall can cause decorative spoiling, it is not moisture, but the life it brings that causes the greatest concern in the home environment. FACT: vapour causes 85% of residential damp problems.
W.H.O. indoor air quality guidelines
“Management of moisture requires proper control of temperature and ventilation to avoid excess humidity, condensation on surfaces and excess moisture in materials. Ventilation should be distributed effectively throughout spaces, and stagnant air zones should be avoided.”
FACT: Houses contain 30 – 40 litres of water as vapour typically. Each day, each occupant adds on average about 1.5 litres as follows:
- Each shower results in 1/2L condensing (the ceond in aseries won’t add as much)
- Vapour from drying clothes releases about ½ litre per day if dried indoors
- Respiration releases about ¾ litre per day (of which ¼ l at night)
- Cooking produces about ¼ litre per day per person
- Unvented vapour can cause condensation, mould and allergenic dust mites. The simple rule for keeping your property dry and mould free is;
- Vent out as much vapour as produced, each and every day!
- Central heating and double-glazing reduce background ventilation. To overcome this you should use mechanical extractors. Where properties are rented, consider using monitoring devices (such as a Govee WIFI hygrometer) and if necessary, install continuous flow extractors, but beware there can be a thermal cost caused by continuous heat lost.
FACTS about Condensation and Mould
- FACT: warm air holds more water vapour than cold air. The warmer it is, the more air’s capacity to hold water vapour. Conversely the colder it is, the less capacity, until air cannot hold any more vapour. We call that the dew point or 100%RH. As soon air reaches capacity, condensation will form on the coldest surfaces.
- FACT: Mould and dust mites
- FACT: mould only grows when air is humid for long periods. In the occupied home environment, it is 6 hours over 85% RH. For properties that are unoccupied for long periods, it is 75% RH for many days of consistent and high humidity. Avoid allowing the surface relative humidity of cold walls to exceed 85% RH by ventilating, dehumidifying, insulating, and ensuring airflow, particularly in cold corners, base of walls and ceilings, eaves, and cold window and door reveals.
- FACT: dust mites are microscopic insects that can cause allergies. They grow in similar conditions to mould. So ventilate more to avoid allergies.
- FACT: Health concerns
There are no health and safety issues from damp noted. It is in the occupier’s interests to keep a property properly ventilated and temperatures above the dew and mould points throughout the property, thereby reducing the health risk associated with dust mites, bacteria, protozoans, as well as decorative spoiling caused by mould.
TIPS To Stay Condensation and Mould Free
- TIP: Reduce the production of vapour at source:
- TIP: Keep bathroom extractor fans running, or window open for at least 30 minutes.
- TIP: Keep bathroom doors closed at all times, and bathroom windows open safely.
- TIP: When filling the bath, run the cold water first then add the hot.
- TIP: Dry clothes outside, in a dryer, in a closed room with a dehumidifer or window open, never on radiators or heated rail without a door closed and means of removing the vapour.
- TIP: Cook with tops on pots and pans, avoiding excessive boiling.
- TIP: Keep the kitchen door closed and extractor fan on where possible.
- TIP:Mechanical vents are best, but if you only have passive vents, such as a whole in the wall or chimney, then vents open with space for air to move, insulate where possible.
- TIP: Keep trickle vents open or alternatively, open windows on safety locks.
- TIP: Stop mould forming:
* Maintain external wall temperatures above 12°C, with low background heating.
* Declutter leaving space for warm air to circulate around cold surfaces.
* Where possible, avoid placing wardrobes and furniture against external walls.
* Avoid overfilling wardrobes and cupboards as it restricts air circulation.
* Use dehumidifiers or small wardrobe dehumidifying bags and replace regularly.
* Wipe mould and condensation off walls and clothes as soon as it appears. - TIP: Monitor relative humidity
* We recommend monitoring temperature and relative humidity with a data logger to see what is happening.
Relevant examples of properties with similar damp issues: electric-sockets
This Artificial Intelligence section of the report is being built using Chat GPT 4 by damp.ai which is in beta trial. Damp.aï is only partially content aware, so cut and paste anything that needs greater explanation. Chat GPT 4 is prone to error and “hallucinations”.
- Note A.I. agents retain input text to enhance performance and understanding. It’s safest to keep conversations anonymous, as we have done.
- Since we can’t guarantee accuracy, we encourage you to prioritise simple, often free, damp solutions before considering more expensive alternatives.