Wet after damp-proofing - Damp Surveys Ltd

Background

This property has internal damp despite state of the art damp proofing treatment.

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Evidence & Illustrations

Data loggers

This graph is from the same data set, but focused on dew points. Dew points are an exact match for vapour quantity. Unlike most of the properties I survey, your dew points are close to external temperatures, as they should be, suggesting effective ventilation during the period of the survey. The grey line represents the dew point differential. Below 0°C represents periods of high vapourquantity in the wet room compared to the damp wall. It is inventible that there will be peaks, the main request is that you keep the front bathroom ventilated, such as with the window, and close the bathroom door. The thin black line is the dew points from my own property. Ventilation in your property is often better than mine.

In conclusion, from the data loggers

At the time of the survey there was no clear sign of condensation. But damp walls take about 9 months to dry out, there are clear risks such as insufficient extractor fans, therefore there is a risk and there could be residual damp.

Evidence & Illustrations

The property is being sold. The buyer’s surveyor had these findings:

Main Walls (D4): High damp meter readings throughout the ground floor.
Walls and Partitions (E3): High damp meter readings throughout the lower ground floor.
Windows (D5): Old and rotten windows, with some cracked panes and lacking British Standard safety ratings.
Outside Doors (D6): Rear door sill poorly profiled, leading to rot and potential water ingress.
Ceilings (E2): Cracked ceilings with some blown/loose plaster; historic stain in the kitchen.
Roof Coverings (D2): Defect suspected behind the parapet wall at the front, causing damage to the front wall.

The buyer’s surveyor suggested these causes:

Main Walls (D4): The dampness is believed to be a result of a failed damp proof course and a lack of tanking. Although I can’t find an explicit diagnosis from the buyer’s surveyor, the mention of failed damp proof course suggests a root cause of damp in the wall is from rising damp, which comes from groundwater.
Walls and Partitions (E3): High damp meter readings indicate dampness issues.
Windows (D5): The disrepair of windows is attributed to age, rot, and lack of maintenance.
Outside Doors (D6): The rotting of the rear door sill is due to poor profiling.
Ceilings (E2): Cracks and loose plaster in ceilings are noted, with a historic nature of the kitchen stain.
Roof Coverings (D2): There is likely a valley behind the parapet wall causing damage to the front wall.

The buyer’s surveyor made these recommendations:

Main Walls (D4): Seek urgent inspection and quotes for repairs before proceeding with the purchase.
Walls and Partitions (E3): Investigate and report on remedial work needed before exchange of contracts.
Windows (D5): Undertake repairs and improvements soon.
Outside Doors (D6): Get an inspection and quote for the rear door sill issue.
Ceilings (E2): Proceed with repairs and improvements soon.
Roof Coverings (D2): Request inspection and quote for remedial work from a reputable contractor; specialist equipment might be needed.

The wall of primary concern, is between the lower ground floor shower room and bathroom on the corridor. There is a brown stain. Brown stains come from water moving through building material. The brown patch is lop-sided, higher on the door side.

There is no drainage from the rear patio to the rear drain. Penetrating damp to the rear wall, would account for dampness on that wall.

There are damp proofing rods inserted in the wall, seen here under the staircase. I understand these were there when you bought. These damp proofing rods diffuse siloxane, is a compound used to reduce absorption of water in buildings. Water (H₂O) molecules are strongly polar, meaning they have distinct positive and negative ends. This polarity results in water becoming attracted to the pore in bricks and other building materials. The force of this attraction can overcome gravity, enabling water to rise through the material’s pores, a process often known as capillary action. The smaller the pores in a material, the higher water can climb. Siloxane works by modifying the surface properties of these materials, reducing their affinity for water. It effectively lowers the force of attraction between the water molecules and the building material. Siloxane can be an effective solution for damp proofing.

That said, in this case the damp proofing rods have not stopped dampness, probably because it is penetrating damp from above.

I have tested Siloxane and find that it does indeed reduce the absorption of water in brick, from any source. However, if constantly saturated in water it will eventually dilute, loosing effectiveness. I will occasionally recommend that siloxane cream, such Dryzone Damp ProofingCream, is use along the base of a wall between the floor and wall, where dampness, such as condensation is at risk.
I don’t encourage owners to drill holes in walls, but once drilled, there is no harm in replacing the rods if they are showing signs of losing their effectiveness. However, you should also follow my other recommendations.

According to the British Geological Survey, the property sits in a part of London that has rocks with essentially no groundwater, the source of water in rising damp.

According to Ordinance Survey, there is no risk of flooding, which can cause penetrating damp. However, it is close to a fairly major road. Roads tended to develop from footpaths, which often followed streams. The streams now fed through underground drains. If water comes from these drains it is typically the council or waterboards responsibility.

There is a line in the plaster about 1M off the ground. This line typically results from past damp proofing treatment involve the replacement of the original absorbent plaster with impermeable plaster. The theoretical purpose behind this is to stop dampness resulting from hygroscopic saltsthat can be released by groundwater, but far more commonly associated with historic burning of coal or equine urine.

There is a good example of hygroscopic salts affecting a nearby wall, almost certainly resulting from historic use of horses for transport. The shape is very distinctive. In 2020 I tried persuading the PCA to include the movement of hygroscopic salts, see https://youtu.be/EeT05HxvAs0?si=XDH84Sv2lGFahnuy .

The wall was damp, as indicated by a Protimeter radio frequency damp meter. The meter measured 999REL, signifying saturated pores deep within the wall. Readings below 300REL are dry. These meters assess the extent of damp and are used to trace it to the source.

The meter in conductance mode, also showed dampness on the surface.

Directly behind the stain section of wall, there is a an electrical socket for the electrical heater. Electrical sockets are prone to dampness because a section of the wall is cut out to install a metal box, which is then covered in absorbent plaster. Metal causes heat loss exacerbating the risk of condensation.

The grout looks to be damaged. Shower and bathroom floors are liable to become wet through use or condensation.
There is mould under the socket, suggesting excess vapour is a factor. Mould growth occurs where relative humidity exceeds 85%RH for more than six hours.
The presence of mould at the bottom of a wall also rules out rising damp as the root cause as mould is inhibited by hygroscopic salts found in groundwater, the source of water in rising damp.

The thermal lens, where blue is about 5°C colder than yellow, highlights areas of heat loss.

Relative humidity measures the amount of vapour in the air relative to the air’s capacity to hold vapour. It is influenced by vapour pressure and temperature. As temperature rises, the air can hold more vapour. Conversely, as temperature drops, the air’s capacity to hold vapour decreases until it reaches the dew point at 100%RH, resulting in the formation of dew or condensation. A secondary cause of high relative humidity is a low temperature relative to the source of humidity.

There were signs of dampness under the carpet, which appears to lead from the shower room floor.

Despite its damp appearance, the floor was dry. Solid floors are impermeable therefore don’t absorb water, instead displacing water to an absorbent wall, be it condensation or indeed water walked through from a recent shower.

The shower room extractor fan is running at 8.3 Litres per second and does not remain on for 30 minutes. Building Regs. require 15 l/s.

There is no extractor fan in the front bathroom.

There are high damp meter readings to the bathroom front wall.

There are calcium sulphate salts in the corner of the front bathroom wall. Calcium sulphate salts, frequently found as white powder or crystals on internal walls are harmless and originate from building materials. They typically resulting from the constant fluctuations between evaporationand condensation.

There is moss on the front wall pouring off the front door step onto the wall and down through the impermeable render.

On the other side of the wall, by the neighbours front wall, sufficient water is passing through the the patio in front of their front door, percolating down the wall.

Immediately outside the central front room, there is a render crack. It is unlikely that rain is penetrating through, as you would expect to see a brown stain. Either it is because these walls have been damp proofed, as I suspect, or because the rain is causing the bricks to dampen. A damp brick is a poor insulator, causing heat loss in creasing the risk of condensation.

There is dampness in the front middle room up to about 1.2M. The bedroom is unheated increasing the risk of condensation.

By contrast the damp meter is only high about 300mm off the front bedroom wall. If there were rising damp then the walls would be equally damp.

Yet is damp half-way up. This is a sign that the wall been damp proofed. What tends to happen is condensation forms on the interface between the impermeable slurry and the original absorbent plater. Typically damp proofers damp proof to about 1.3M.

**FROM ANOTHER PROPERTY** I will be publishing a few examples of properties that have been damp proofed following misdiagnosed rising damp. The above is one such example.

There is slight rot to the rear timber door frame caused by Phellinus contiguus, commonly known as window rot. This slow-growing white rot is common in older properties but is not structurally significant. Affected areas can be cut out, sanded, filled with wood filler (e.g. as Ronseal wood filler), and painted for protection. I have window frames with almost as much Ronseal as timber, they will last for years and look the same as timber.

Upstairs paint has come away from the wall. The wall was dry. Typically this happens when paint straight onto plaster without a mist coat.

It is possible there was also a leak, although no tell-tale signs on the outside.

The hopper appears to be displaced. You should check that it is running without overspill during a rainstorm.

There is sligtht damp stain around a radiator pipe. It is dry now. I understand it was repaired.

Like any period property, or indeed any property, there will be ongoing maintenance shared between leaseholders. Arguably this property will have fewer ongoing costs than a property painted across the whole facade. The parapet may need attention in the next few years. It does not strike me as especially dilapidated, indeed the cover appears to be intact, but I did not see it from above.

To keep the property dry
Channel rainwater away from building
Ask the freeholder to 1) Create a channel to drain water from front steps away from the mossy front wall above the bathroom, such as using an angle grinder. 2) A similar procedure is required for the area in front of the right-hand neighbours front door, in this case you should add a fillet of cement based mortar, along the wall supporting the step. 3) Any cracks to the front render should be filled with an external acrylic based caulk and painted with an impermeable paint such as Zinsser masonry paint. 4) drain the rear patio, ideally with an aco drain connected to the rear drain. It should take a workman no more than 1 -2 days plus materials say £1,000 in total. The cost should be shared.	£600
Ask freeholder for works programme
Although the front parapet doesn’t affect the flat, it would normally form part of a 7 – 10 year cycle of works, with costs shared amongst leaseholders as part of normal ongoing maintenance.
Check rainwater goods
During a rainstorm, film and check the flow of water through all rainwater goods, including the back hopper. You could ask the top floor flat to do the same looking at the hopper and is possible the area around the parapet, use a long selfie stick if necessary.
Seal tiles with grout
This relates to the tiles around the socket for the heater in the shower room. There appear to be some gaps, partially filled with a sealant. It is better to use grout.	£50
Use shower room heater, disconnect or keep extractor running
There will always be a risk of condensation in the shower room unless vapour is removed. Possibly the easiest solution is to install a continuous flow extractor fan into the shower room.
Protect against window rot
For the timber affected by window rot, sand, fill, and paint with an appropriate protective product.	£100
Remedial actions – estimate of costs	£750

This estimate is based on approximate time, costs and competence to complete repairs. It is not a quote for work. We are independent. A general builder can complete most work. trustedtraders.which.co.uk is good sources of general builders. Once the recommended remedial actions are completed and the walls allowed to dry, dampness will not have a material impact on the value of the property. It is the client’s responsibility to check that a contractor has sufficient insurance and competence to undertake any work that we recommend.

Actions if all else fails
Consider installing and replacing bathroom extractor fans
Consider installing a bathroom extractor fan with 30 minute overrun after lights are switched off.	£800
Consider using a dehumidifier
Maintain relative humidity, especially at night when it’s cold outside, with a dehumidifier such as PureMate 20L/Day Portable & Compact Dehumidifier with 6.5 Litre (£179.99 Refrigerant), Duux Bora Smart Dehumidifier (DXDH02UK £300 Refrigerant) or Meaco DD8L Zambezi (£260 Desiccant – best for colder environments) – Which! Best buys. There are plenty of alternatives available. I choose a dehumidifier based on daily and tank capacity, low noise, whether it has a pipe out, and ease of programmable functions over other considerations such as weight and aesthetics. The technology is old and easy to manufacture. So if these brands are not available, you are sure to find another alternative. Evaluate based on daily capacity (20L minimum) and whether it has a continuous pipe out (use this to drip into a sink when away in winter).
Consider installing a kitchen extractor
The main issue to getting ducting out the extractor fan. Ideally it should be using rigid ducting (not flexible as the ridges create eddies slowing air speed), as short as possible with as few bends. It can go up the chimney but would then need to be run for longer to account for the possibility of vapour travelling back down.	£400
Reduce the absorption of moisture from solid floor
To reduce the absorption of moisture up from a solid floor, ask a general builder to carefully remove skirting board from the wall, ensuring there are no cables or pipes, carefully cut back the lowest 10mm or so of plaster back to brick at the base of the wall (perhaps with an angle grinder), run a 10mm thick bead of thixotropic cream, such as DryZone by Safeguard, along the brick to reduce absorption (ignore Safeguard’s claims about using the cream for rising damp). Then replace the skirting board. I don’t advocate drilling holes and injecting a thixotropic or any other type of rising damp treatment.	£100
Replace damp proofing DryRods
To improve the effectiveness of the damp proofing DryRods, instruct a general builder to replace the current rods with new DryRods. I would screw into each and lever each out, such as with a claw hammer. 3 packs of 10 should be ample (I didn’t count).	£165
Paint mist coat
Paint mist coat to any paintwork that has lifted off the plaster wall to ensure adhesion to the unpainted plaster, e.g. bathroom front wall and upstairs living room.	£300
Optimal actions – estimate of costs	£1,765

I conclude that penetrating damp exacerbated by past condensation.

Front shows rainwater penetration, rear ponding causes moisture.

. By taking a root cause approach, rather than a focus on blocking the symptoms of damp the savings are likely to be around £4,000. This contrasts with typical damp proofing contractor recommendations such as chemical treatment for rising damp and untargeted ventilation, such as PIV systems.

Flood risk: Low risk See Flood Risk (note most flood risk is not from groundwater).
Sub-soil rocks: Rocks with essentially no groundwater See British Geological Survey.
Therefore risk of Rising Damp: highly unlikely, see explanation by Dr Robyn Pender of Historic England.

I confirm that I inspected the property on 231211SH1200. I conclude that penetrating damp exacerbated by past condensation.. All buildings can be exposed to unvented vapour and external dampness to some degree. You will mitigate the risk of damp if you follow all our recommendations. This report is intended to be read in full including supplementary links in this report. Observations and opinions must not be taken in isolation. Given the right weather conditions almost any house can be affected by rain. Like any building, you need to be aware of the risks of damp arising in the future and should plan a programme of monitoring, prevention and maintenance accordingly. Damp Surveys Ltd reports are designed to provide you with an informed, independent expert opinion as to the cause of dampness in the property, together with any recommendations for further investigation or remedial work. We do not warrant any findings in this report unless we enter into a separate warranty agreement with you.

The survey was conducted during daylight hours. Damp will be more noticeable at night and when the weather is colder and more humid. Gutters are more likely to fail when full of leaves and during periods of prolonged rain and adverse wind. We make best endeavours but cannot guarantee being able to identify all forms of damp, rot and insect infestation affecting the property.

We carried out a careful and thorough inspection of as much of the property as was accessible. However, when a full inspection is not possible, we make a professional judgement regarding the likelihood of a defect being present. In certain circumstances, this may lead to a recommendation for further action to open up an area for additional investigation. We were unable to inspect the entire roof, all the guttering, and some of the drains. Similarly, inspection of woodwork or other parts of the structure that were covered, unexposed, poorly lit or inaccessible such as in the loft, cellar, or sub-floor void was not possible, and therefore we are unable to assert that such parts of the property are free from defect. There were no obvious signs of damp resulting from these limitations

Negligence claims must be made within 90 days of the damp survey site visit. Clients must make best endeavours to monitor humidity and temperature on a damp wall and the closest source of humidity, by purchasing and placing two data loggers for example the Smart Hygrometer measuring humidity on the wall and nearest source of vapour, before and after following our recommendations. These data loggers have sufficient memory capacity to store 90 days of data.

This report is for the sole use of the client (named on the invoice, but omitted here for anonymity) for whom the survey was undertaken and can only be relied upon for 90 days from the survey date. Unless expressly stated otherwise in this report, nothing in this report confers or is intended to confer any rights on any third party pursuant to the Contracts (Rights of Third Parties) Act 1999.

Simon Hichens

Site visit 231211SH1200

Simon Hichens BSc Chemistry RICS Qualified Expert Witness (Chartered Surveyors)
PCA Certificated Surveyor of Dampness & Timber in Buildings (Property Care Association)
Damp Surveys Ltd, 119 Longton Ave London SE26 6RF Reg. 10977488 (England & Wales)
Founder of damp.aï & Member of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB)

Our damp surveys are designed to provide a holistic diagnosis that identifies and deals with causes rather than a focus on symptoms. Symptoms will disappear over time, once damp is stopped at source. We look for risks of dampness, but unless moisture is present, we can’t guarantee to identify all risks of future moisture. Our reports:

identify root cause(s) of major unwanted dampness within the property,
identify major symptoms of unwanted dampness,
identify major structural damage caused by dampness,
recommend actions and estimated costs to stop damp at source and mitigate its effects,
recognise that treating damp is often a staged approach, treating obvious causes first.

Note neither condensation nor rising damp are causes. They are symptoms.

Understanding damp

For survey purposes, damp is defined as unwanted water. Water brings life. We need it. Unfortunately, fungus and insects also thrive in water. While a damp wall can cause decorative spoiling, it is not moisture, but the life it brings that causes the greatest concern in the home environment. FACT: vapour causes 85% of residential damp problems.

Independence and Methodology

Our only income is through damp survey fees. We are independent of contractors and never profit from remedial work. We do not receive or pay any fees or other inducements. Our motivation is peace of mind and practical, durable solutions. We use an array of equipment to identify the root cause of damp within walls. Our damp surveys follow guidance from RICS, Historic England and PCA joint position statement and support RICS’s highest standard, level 3 “Home Survey Standard” (HSS).

During the survey we assess likelihood of rising damp*, mainswater leak, penetrating damp, condensation, timber rot and woodworm. We profile the damp patches and consider the likely sources of dampness and test ventilation against building regulations requirements. We consider changes to the property and factors just before the first sighting of damp.

Rising damp concern: Your buyer’s RICS homebuyers identified a potential damp issue.
Damp treatment: Despite the low risk of rising damp, there has been an attempt at chemical treatment against rising damp. Rising damp treatment is normally a sign of insufficient ventilation. The walls have been drilled into by about 200mm and injected with damp proofing chemicals. In theory the chemicals are absorbed into the brick pores reducing the bricks ability to absorb moisture. Walls are replaced with damp proofers slurry. This can cause problems with absorption imbalance, resulting in increased condensation on other walls or vapour becoming absorbed and trapped behind the slurry. There was evidence of surface condensation in areas probably not treated with replacement plaster but no evidence of trapped vapour. The solution is through ventilation and humidity control.
Weather: Overcast and dry.
Property: Ground and lower ground floor flat in Victorian terraced house.
Background: Property being sold, recently surveyed with standard findings.
Changes: Conversion into flats, heating off in lower front middle room, no bathroom extractor.
Occupancy: Occupied by a couple.
Mould & notes: Condensation signs, past mould, no longer an issue.
Primary damp concern: Suspected rising damp at wall bases.
Other damp concerns: Parapet concerns, no top floor access.
Compounding: Solid floor amplifying condensation.
Tenure: Ground and lower ground floor flat.
Attachment: Terraced.
Build: Victorian.
Walls: 9-inch thickness.
Exterior comment: Ponding signs to rear patio, water traces from stairs and front right-hand neighbour’s door.
Penetrating damp assessment: Signs of penetrating damp.
Drains: Drains running freely.
Leak signs: No leak signs.
Leak assessment: No apparent leaks.
Floor: Solid.
Loft: n/a.
Timber assessment: No rot in structural timber. Minor rot to rear door.
Last dry: Past damp-proofing suggests common historical condensation issues.
Ventilation assessment: Front bathroom lacks extractor, rear needs improved fan.

W.H.O. indoor air quality guidelines

“Management of moisture requires proper control of temperature and ventilation to avoid excess humidity, condensation on surfaces and excess moisture in materials. Ventilation should be distributed effectively throughout spaces, and stagnant air zones should be avoided.”

FACT: Houses contain 30 – 40 litres of water as vapour typically. Each day, each occupant adds on average about 1.5 litres as follows:

Each shower results in 1/2L condensing (each additional shower in a series won’t add as much as the first, so long as the door is kept closed)
Vapour from drying clothes releases about ½ litre per day if dried indoors
Respiration releases about ¾ litre per day (of which ¼ l at night)
Cooking produces about ¼ litre per day per person
Unvented vapour can cause condensation, mould and allergenic dust mites. The simple rule for keeping your property dry and mould free is;
Vent out as much vapour as produced, each and every day!
Central heating and double-glazing reduce background ventilation. To overcome this you should use mechanical extractors. Where properties are rented, consider using monitoring devices (such as a Govee WIFI hygrometer) and if necessary, install continuous flow extractors, but beware there can be a thermal cost caused by continuous heat lost.

FACT: dehumidifiers are a win-win as all energy is released as heat with a 50% bonus through enthalpy, but they need to be targeted to the source of the vapour or location of dampness and mould, should be insufficient, typically 20 L/ day theoretical capacity with 6 Litre container and decanted daily or drained into a sink or similar.

FACTS about Condensation and Mould

FACT: warm air holds more water vapour than cold air. The warmer it is, the more air’s capacity to hold water vapour. Conversely the colder it is, the less capacity, until air cannot hold any more vapour. We call that the dew point or 100%RH. As soon air reaches capacity, condensation will form on the coldest surfaces.
FACT: Mould and dust mites
FACT: Mould only grows when air is humid for long periods. In the occupied home environment, it is 6 hours over 85% RH. For properties that are unoccupied for long periods, it is 75% RH for many days of consistent and high humidity. Avoid allowing the surface relative humidity of cold walls to exceed 85% RH by ventilating, dehumidifying, insulating, and ensuring airflow, particularly in cold corners, base of walls and ceilings, eaves, and cold window and door reveals.
FACT: Dust mites are microscopic insects that can cause allergies. They grow in similar conditions to mould. So ventilate more to avoid allergies.
FACT: Health concerns: There are no health and safety issues from damp noted. It is in the occupier’s interests to keep a property properly ventilated or dehumidified and temperatures above the dew and mould points throughout the property, thereby reducing the health risk associated with dust mites, bacteria, protozoans, as well as decorative spoiling caused by mould.

TIPS To Stay Condensation and Mould Free

TIP: Reduce the production of vapour at source:
TIP: Keep bathroom extractor fans running, or window open for at least 30 minutes.
TIP: Keep bathroom doors closed at all times, and bathroom windows open safely.
TIP: When filling the bath, run the cold water first then add the hot.
TIP: Dry clothes outside, in a dryer, in a closed room with a dehumidifier or window open, never on radiators or heated rail without a door closed and a means of removing the vapour.
TIP: Cook with tops on pots and pans, avoiding excessive boiling.
TIP: Keep the kitchen door closed and extractor fan on where possible.
TIP:Mechanical vents are best, but if you only have passive vents, such as a whole in the wall or chimney, then vents open with space for air to move, insulate where possible.
TIP: Keep trickle vents open or alternatively, open windows on safety locks.
TIP: Stop mould forming:
* Maintain external wall temperatures above 12°C, with low background heating.
* Declutter leaving space for warm air to circulate around cold surfaces.
* Where possible, avoid placing wardrobes and furniture against external walls.
* Avoid overfilling wardrobes and cupboards as it restricts air circulation.
* Use dehumidifiers or small wardrobe dehumidifying bags and replace regularly.
* Wipe mould and condensation off walls and clothes as soon as it appears.
TIP: Monitor relative humidity
* We recommend monitoring temperature and relative humidity with a data logger to see what is happening.

Help It takes teamwork to solve damp and mould issues in properties. It isn’t easy or obvious. We can help with damp.ai. Time permitting the plan is to run online workshops for solving damp issues, within the community.

Background

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Data Evidence Explanations

Evidence & Illustrations

Data loggers

In conclusion, from the data loggers

Evidence & Illustrations

The property is being sold. The buyer’s surveyor had these findings:

The buyer’s surveyor suggested these causes:

The buyer’s surveyor made these recommendations:

Remedial actions

Recommended remedial actions

To keep the property dry

Optimal remedial actions

Actions if all else fails

Conclusions & reasoning

Conclusion summary for main concern

Reasoning

Root cause fix should save: £4,000

Risk of rising damp: highly unlikely

Survey report & limitations

Site visit 231211SH1200

Damp & Survey methodology

Property & circumstances

W.H.O. indoor air quality guidelines

FACTS about Condensation and Mould

TIPS To Stay Condensation and Mould Free

JPS

Joint Position Statement

RICS, PCA, HISTORIC ENGLAND JPS REPORT

1 A summary of the surveyor’s observations, including an Assessment of Significance.

2 The importance of regular building maintenance and how a lack of even basic maintenance can lead to problems arising. This is especially important and relevant to roofs, gutters, hidden gutters, rainwater disposal and changes in external ground levels.

3 An impartial diagnosis of the damp problem, which should be clearly explained and laid out systematically to communicate the relevant risks to the reader.

4 Where recommendations for the repair and recovery of moisture-affected structures are stated, the solutions should be clearly explained and prioritised as appropriate.

5 The client should be provided with alternative options for which each recommendation should include advantages and disadvantages and the relevant cost and time implications.

6 Where monitoring and staged interventions are appropriate or beneficial, the client should be informed of the reasons for these options, together with the likely cost and time implications of such recovery strategies.

7 Where appropriate, clearly state whether the building concerned represents a financial risk to the buyer or lender and why.

8 Any conflicts of interest should be clearly stated.

Exemplar

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