Recently purchased flat with rot

Background

Before purchasing this “fixer-upper”, the client sought our expertise, which we declined. While few experienced homebuyer surveyors consider rising damp as a likely cause, especially not in cities like London where groundwater, the source of rising damp, is pumped, rising damp proofing contractors do offer homebuyer surveyors a cover against liability for defects missed. In this case damp proofing contractors quoted £30,000 for rising damp, without evidence, other than a few damp meter readings, and without quoting for repairs to any of the other clearly visible sources of water.

Since purchasing the property, the owners have uncovered several critical issues. Firstly, a leaking pipe beneath the bath, situated directly opposite a damp patch of timber in the end room, suggesting a direct cause of the moisture problem there. Secondly, within the bedroom where the plaster showed significant damage, a leak in the lead water supply pipe was found. This pipe, which runs through concrete beneath the tiled floor (now lifted for repairs), is set for complete replacement. This explains some of the damaged walls, crumbling plaster, rotting skirtings, and calcium sulphate salts, partly hidden under lino.

This case exemplifies why it is difficult for homebuyer surveyors to be more candid about the likely root causes, because they cannot rip up floors to check for leaks, thereby relying on damp proofing contractors to at least give financial cover, if not accuracy. This relationship partially explains the development of UK’s damp proofing industry.

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Data loggers

In conclusion, from the data loggers

Unfortunately we are missing data from the external temperature, but from https://mouldpoint.co.uk and https://x.com/mouldpoint we can see the external temperature dropped to 2°C on the 8th January and 1°C on the 9th January. The dew points maximums were 0°C and -1°C. This means that vapour is being generated and or evporated inside the property.
I would recommend two dehumidifiers, making sure one is a desiccant, which operates better at low temperature, and two large fans to speed up the evaporation and vapourremoval.

Evidence & Illustrations

The property has an unusually large number of damp issues. Starting with the neighbour’s side of the front rainwater down-pipe. It can be seen to overspill rainwater goods above. Ask the neighbour to fix it. If you can’t get them to fix it you could ask a roofer to fix it on the neighbour’s behalf. It will benefit many flats in the two buildings.

There was rotten timber skirting board sitting on the ground, with condensation forming under the gloss paint side. The rot is Coniophora puteana, also known as cellar rot. It is a brown wet fungus. It requires water to grow. Eliminating the water source will stop rot from causing further damage to timber. There are wood weevil holes in the timber. Wood weevil requires cellar rot. Remove water and both will stop. It is important to note that the floors are solid screed, therefore there is no structural timber. I would replace the most damaged timber.

The front wall has been damp proofed against rising damp. There is a light brown stain to the left of the chimney breast. A stain typically comes from moisture passing through building material. It could be condensation coming off the floor or penetrating damp from the neighbour’s defective rainwater goods, or more likely a combination. Both need to be addressed.

In the bedroom there is a patch of crystallised calcium sulphate salts. Calcium sulphate salts, frequently found as white powder or crystals on internal walls are harmless and originate from building materials. They typically resulting from the constant fluctuations between evaporationand condensation.

Immediately outside there is a lead waste pipe. I can only imagine that it is out of service and formed part of a kitchen or bathroom once situated in what is now the bedroom. I understand a leak was found on the pipe. This could definitely explain the internal dampness. However, if the leak related to this pipe, then it is unlikely to have carried water for many year. If seems strange that a mains water pipe remained in situ. Had you not told me about the leak, I would be speculating that this pipe caused heat loss under the tiles, causing condensation. And this, plus the poor internal ventilation could account for internal dampness in this bedroom. It could be a combination of the two. Both need addressing.

The bedroom walls are severely damaged by water and blistered plaster. Calcium sulphatecrystallisation behind plaster occurs when moisture penetrates through walls, dissolving soluble calcium sulphate present in plaster and other building material. When the solution reach the plaster surface, moisture evaporates leaving dissolved salts. As the concentration of these salts increases, they begin to crystallise. This process can exert pressure on the plaster, leading to blistering and eventual flaking, similar to the effect of sea salts on coastal structures. The crystallisation of salts, including calcium sulphate, can cause significant damage not just to man-made structures but also to natural formations. A notable example of salt erosion in nature is found in areas like the Dead Sea shores.

Once dry most of these walls can be sanded down and painted, without need for replastering. Blistered walls can be taken back to brick. Where removing external walls, consider replacing with insulation, such as PIR, such as Celotex or Kingspan thermal insulating plasterboard. Although, you should not use PIR in old properties with timber floors, as PIR can cause interstitial condensation, here the floors have been replaced with screed.

There is dampness on an internal wall. The wall appears to have been treated for rising damp. One of the risk with solid floors is condensation forming on the cold floor and rising damp; the root cause being condensation not rising damp. There are two potential issues, a radiator when not in use, such as during the energy crisis, can remove heat increasing the risk of condensation. The corridor is next to the bathroom, which has not effective ventilation.

Dampness was recorded high on the wall. I encourage you to buy one of the radio damp meters, to measure chnages in dampness over time.

Note the green corrosion on the radiator. I suspect that this is caused by condensation. However, there is a risk of concrete corroding copper. I assume you plan to replace the heating. I would check it for leaks and there is a chance that there is a leak around this area.

The timber floor is rotten with cellar rot (Coniophora puteana) by the bathroom. I understand that a leak was found under the bath. The bathroom leak could easily account for dampness here. I was working on a theory that the tenants had a fridge here. Old fridges in humid environments are susceptible to the condensation that naturally forms inside the fridge either leaking out, or condensing behind the fridge. The kitchen is open plan to this room and not adequately vented, if indeed tenants ever used the kitchen vent.

The kitchen has an open fire place. Chimneys were designed to be used for heating in winter. The external skin of bricks is only a single brick wide, as opposed to a normal wall which is two bricks thick. This results in half the insulation and therefore localised heat loss. The inside of the chimney breast was 4.2°C which is less than the dew point and therefore condensation was taking place inside the chimney at the time of the survey. In humid environments, a chimney can act like a water pump, condensing it, the transferring moisture along both sides of the cold wall through absorption, often known as capillary action.

There is mould on the wall next to the chimney breast. Mould growth occurs where relative humidity exceeds 85%RH for more than six hours. Excessive humidity is usually due to insufficient ventilation, poor air circulation, and cold surfaces. Relative humidity measures the amount of vapour in the air relative to the air’s capacity to hold vapour. It is influenced by vapour pressureand temperature. As temperature rises, the air can hold more vapour. Conversely, as temperature drops, the air’s capacity to hold vapour decreases until it reaches the dew point at 100%RH, resulting in the formation of dew or condensation. A secondary cause of high relative humidity is a low temperature relative to the source of humidity. Mould growth is inhibited by nitrates found in groundwater. The presence of mould at the bottom of a wall rules out rising damp as the root cause and points towards condensation from unvented excess vapour.

The bathroom extractor fan is not working properly. It was extracting at a rate of 1 l/s, little more than air movement in a passive vent. The Building Regulation requirement is for fans to extract at 15 l/s.

You were concerned about damage to the plinth and water collecting on the outside tiles. I do not think these are the root causes of internal damp, as there is no brown stain. However, they could marginally contribute, such as through increased heat loss and therefore should be improved. The plinth should not be cracked. Ideally it should be about 1 M off the ground, roughly the height that rainwater splashes up to. There should be a fillet of cement based mortar at the base of the wall, plants should be removed and the patio should drain away, either naturally, such as through groves, of an Aco drain. Never use a French drain, the misguided invention of Mr French.

Some timbers have been affected by Phellinus contiguus, commonly known as window rot. This slow-growing white rot is common in older properties but is not structurally significant. Affected areas can be cut out, sanded, filled with an epoxy-based filler such as Ronseal, and painted for protection.

The issue with cupboards under the front steps is rainwater penetrating through cracks and heat loss. These areas were originally designed for coal storage. You can fill cracks, but in my experience it is better to keep the under steps as it was original intended for storage of water resistant items.

The uncovered front wall and render cracks could allow water to penetrating through.

The crack to the rear could allow water to penetrating through and will inevitably cause heat loss. I assume this will be repaired and monitored for movement.

“”

To keep the property dry
Fix leaks
Clearly all leaks need to be repaired, including the leak under the bedroom, bathroom and neighbour gutter or hopper feeding into the down-pipe. You should have the central heating system tested for leaks, if indeed you plan to keep the existing pipework. There is a very real risk of a corrosion on copper pipe in the hallway. Investigate and if appropriate, remove the lead pipe from the rear of the bedroom.	£800
Fill or remove damaged timber
Fill damaged timber using “2 pack”, epoxy based Ronseal High performance wood filler and paint to protect it. Remove rotten or woodworm damaged timber, including the rear floor. As discussed, consider installing underfloor heating and subfloor insulation. However, this may not be expedient if you are considering expanding into the side return.
Protect the external perimeter from rain
1. Fill cracks in the external plinth and run about 3cm of a triangular fillet of cement-based mortar, to deflect rain from the base of the wall. 2. Consider installing an Aco drain at the rear, making sure that it drains away from the building. 3. Fill render crack to the front with an acrylic external caulk and paint with an impermeable paint such as Zinsser or Dulux impermeable masonry paint. 4. Fill the large crack at the rear with a cement-based mortar (taking advice from a structural engineer). 5. Fill gaps in and around the front steps, acrylic caulk for small gaps, cement mortar for gaps over 3mm. 6. Cover the front dividing wall, such as with coping stones or an impermeable coating, such as StormDry.
Use a dehumidifier
To manage relative humidity, especially when poorly ventilated, humid or cold, consider using a dehumidifier such as the PureMate 20L/Day Portable & Compact Dehumidifier with 6.5 Litre (£179.99 Refrigerant), Duux Bora Smart Dehumidifier (DXDH02UK £300 Refrigerant) or Meaco DD8L Zambezi (£260 Desiccant – optimal for colder environments) – all highly rated by Which!. There are numerous alternatives if these specific models are not available. When selecting a dehumidifier, prioritise factors like daily and tank capacity, low noise levels, the availability of a continuous drainage option, and ease of use for programming functions, over aesthetics and weight. The technology behind dehumidifiers is well-established and straightforward to produce, ensuring you can find a suitable alternative focusing on a minimum daily capacity of 20L and the presence of a continuous drainage feature. I would buy two Pro Breeze 30L High Capacity Dehumidifier with Smart App Control from B & Q and a desiccant type such as Meaco on Amazon, make sure that water drips safely away.	£500
Use fan to expedite drying
Direct a large 20″ fan or two, towards any damp areas to expedite the drying process.	£120
Monitor improvements
Mark improvements on damp walls with a pencil line or sticky note and use a moisture meter, such as the Dr. Meter Wood Moisture Meter 2 in 1 Pin & Pinless Multifunctional Water Detector £23.99 or similar damp meter, to log and monitor reduction to dampness in walls. By doing so, you will gain early confidence in these recommendations. Use devices like the ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer to monitor relative humidity and temperature near walls or ceilings, look to keep the dew point at or below the external temperature. The dew point is shown on the app (if not use https://mouldpoint.co.uk to calculate the dew point from humidity and temperature readings).
Stay above the mould and dew points
The dew point indicates when condensation begins, showing the air’s moisture content. To avoid condensation and mould, ensure proper ventilation and dehumidification keep the indoor dew point below the outdoor temperature. Use targeted extractor fans and strategically place dehumidifiers in areas prone to vapour production or dampness. Operating a dehumidifier in bedrooms before bedtime, by clothes drying during the day, and in kitchens overnight is highly effective. Always run at least one dehumidifier when leaving a property vacant, especially in winter. Place it on a sink to catch leaks, with the door open and the window closed, set to 70%RH. Doing this allows you to turn the heating down to its minimum to protect against frost, saving money while minimizing the risk of mould and condensation.
Keep objects away from walls
Reposition furniture and open curtains away from walls, to improve flow of air from the radiator to damp walls.
Remove mould
Consider sanding down mould where dry, and removing it with either bleach or anti-mould foam. I personally use HG Mould Remover Foam Spray, but imagine there is no major difference between brands.	£100
Consider targeted insulation
After ensuring walls are dry and mould-free, consider insulating damp walls with either PIR or thermal lining paper, such supplied by Rockwool. I would as a matter of course insulate inside the chimney breast on the dining room wall.	£200
Remedial actions – estimate of costs	£1,720

This estimate is based on approximate time, costs and competence to complete repairs. It is not a quote for work. We are independent. A general builder can complete most work. trustedtraders.which.co.uk is good sources of general builders. Once the recommended remedial actions are completed and the walls allowed to dry, dampness will not have a material impact on the value of the property. It is the client’s responsibility to check that a contractor has sufficient insurance and competence to undertake any work that we recommend.

Actions if all else fails
Bathroom extractor fan
For optimal vapour removal from the bathroom consider installing a continuous flow bathroom extractor fan, such as the Vent-Axia Extractor Fan With Humidistat & Timer or the Brookvent Airstream DMEV 100 HT. These should ideally be installed away from the door, nearer to the shower, with rigid ducting to minimize air resistance and potentially insulated for long runs.	£600
Consider installing a kitchen extractor
Ideally, kitchens should feature a quiet, user-friendly extractor fan strategically placed right above or adjacent to boiling pots and pans, ensuring vapour is efficiently expelled outdoors. Unfortunately, some installers overlook the necessity of outdoor ducting, effectively nullifying the fan’s purpose, or they opt for lengthy, flexible ducting that’s susceptible to damage and hampers airflow with its ridges and bends. To maximize the likelihood of its use, the fan’s noise level and ease of operation are crucial factors. A fan that operates quietly and automatically is more likely to be used consistently, enhancing kitchen ventilation and comfort.	£800
Check for leaking rainwater goods
Film gutters and rainwater good generally, around property during a heavy rainstorm, especially to the front on the left side.
Optimal actions – estimate of costs	£1,400

I conclude that there is evidence of leaks, condensation and penetrating damp to the front potentially the rear.

There is signs of leaks and penetrating damp to from the neighbour side. Poor ventilation and heat loss is exacerbating the damp issues. Proofing treatment has made the dampness worse, or at leaks harder to diagnose and treat the root causes.

. By taking a root cause approach, rather than a focus on blocking the symptoms of damp the savings are likely to be around £30,000. This contrasts with typical damp proofing contractor recommendations such as chemical treatment for rising damp and untargeted ventilation, such as PIV systems.

Flood risk: No risk See Flood Risk (note most flood risk is not from groundwater).
Sub-soil rocks: Near low productive aquifer with intergranular flow See British Geological Survey.
Therefore risk of Rising Damp: highly unlikely, see explanation by Dr Robyn Pender of Historic England.

I confirm that I inspected the property on 240109SH1000. I conclude that there is evidence of leaks, condensation and penetrating damp to the front potentially the rear. All buildings can be exposed to unvented vapour and external dampness to some degree. You will mitigate the risk of damp if you follow all our recommendations. This report is intended to be read in full including supplementary links in this report. Observations and opinions must not be taken in isolation. Given the right weather conditions almost any house can be affected by rain. Like any building, you need to be aware of the risks of damp arising in the future and should plan a programme of monitoring, prevention and maintenance accordingly. Damp Surveys Ltd reports are designed to provide you with an informed, independent expert opinion as to the cause of dampness in the property, together with any recommendations for further investigation or remedial work. We do not warrant any findings in this report unless we enter into a separate warranty agreement with you.

The survey was conducted during daylight hours. Damp will be more noticeable at night and when the weather is colder and more humid. Gutters are more likely to fail when full of leaves and during periods of prolonged rain and adverse wind. We make best endeavours but cannot guarantee being able to identify all forms of damp, rot and insect infestation affecting the property.

We carried out a careful and thorough inspection of as much of the property as was accessible. However, when a full inspection is not possible, we make a professional judgement regarding the likelihood of a defect being present. In certain circumstances, this may lead to a recommendation for further action to open up an area for additional investigation. We were unable to inspect the entire roof, all the guttering, and some of the drains. Similarly, inspection of woodwork or other parts of the structure that were covered, unexposed, poorly lit or inaccessible such as in the loft, cellar, or sub-floor void was not possible, and therefore we are unable to assert that such parts of the property are free from defect. There were no obvious signs of damp resulting from these limitations

Negligence claims must be made within 90 days of the damp survey site visit. Clients must make best endeavours to monitor humidity and temperature on a damp wall and the closest source of humidity, by purchasing and placing two data loggers for example the Smart Hygrometer measuring humidity on the wall and nearest source of vapour, before and after following our recommendations. These data loggers have sufficient memory capacity to store 90 days of data.

This report is for the sole use of the client (named on the invoice, but omitted here for anonymity) for whom the survey was undertaken and can only be relied upon for 90 days from the survey date. Unless expressly stated otherwise in this report, nothing in this report confers or is intended to confer any rights on any third party pursuant to the Contracts (Rights of Third Parties) Act 1999.

Simon Hichens

Site visit 240109SH1000

Simon Hichens BSc Chemistry RICS Qualified Expert Witness (Chartered Surveyors)
PCA Certificated Surveyor of Dampness & Timber in Buildings (Property Care Association)
Damp Surveys Ltd, 119 Longton Ave London SE26 6RF Reg. 10977488 (England & Wales)
Founder of damp.aï & Member of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB)

Our damp surveys are designed to provide a holistic diagnosis that identifies and deals with causes rather than a focus on symptoms. Symptoms will disappear over time, once damp is stopped at source. We look for risks of dampness, but unless moisture is present, we can’t guarantee to identify all risks of future moisture. Our reports:

identify root cause(s) of major unwanted dampness within the property,
identify major symptoms of unwanted dampness,
identify major structural damage caused by dampness,
recommend actions and estimated costs to stop damp at source and mitigate its effects,
recognise that treating damp is often a staged approach, treating obvious causes first.

Note neither condensation nor rising damp are causes. They are symptoms.

Understanding damp

For survey purposes, damp is defined as unwanted water. Water brings life. We need it. Unfortunately, fungus and insects also thrive in water. While a damp wall can cause decorative spoiling, it is not moisture, but the life it brings that causes the greatest concern in the home environment. FACT: vapour causes 85% of residential damp problems.

Independence and Methodology

Our only income is through damp survey fees. We are independent of contractors and never profit from remedial work. We do not receive or pay any fees or other inducements. Our motivation is peace of mind and practical, durable solutions. We use an array of equipment to identify the root cause of damp within walls. Our damp surveys follow guidance from RICS, Historic England and PCA joint position statement and support RICS’s highest standard, level 3 “Home Survey Standard” (HSS).

During the survey we assess likelihood of rising damp*, mainswater leak, penetrating damp, condensation, timber rot and woodworm. We profile the damp patches and consider the likely sources of dampness and test ventilation against building regulations requirements. We consider changes to the property and factors just before the first sighting of damp.

Rising damp concern: the owners were concerned about rising down, but it appears that the property has already been treated for rising damp
Damp treatment: Despite the low risk of rising damp, there has been an attempt at chemical treatment against rising damp. Rising damp treatment is normally a sign of insufficient ventilation. The walls have been drilled into by about 200mm and injected with damp proofing chemicals. In theory the chemicals are absorbed into the brick pores reducing the bricks ability to absorb moisture. Walls are replaced with damp proofers slurry. This can cause problems with absorption imbalance, resulting in increased condensation on other walls or vapour becoming absorbed and trapped behind the slurry. There was evidence of surface condensation in areas probably not treated with replacement plaster but no evidence of trapped vapour. The solution is through ventilation and humidity control.
Weather: inclement
Property: lower ground floor flat in Victorian building
Background: the owners of recently purchased the property
Changes: conversion into flats
Occupancy: the property has been tenanted but vacant for a number of months
Mould & notes: there are signs of mould around the bathroom and kitchen in particular
Primary damp concern: dampness across the whole property
Other damp concerns: rot in timber
Compounding: Defective ventilation
Airbricks: there is very little subfloor ventilation due to most of the property being solid floor. Only the rear has ventilation in the floor. Subfloor has been built up
Tenure: lower ground floor flat
Attachment: a terraced
Build: Victorian
Walls: 9 inch, thick wall
Exterior comment: there is rainwater penetrating from the neighbour’s side of the front wall. It is affecting your side as well
Penetrating damp assessment: the front room is being affected by penetrating damp, but largely hidden by damp proofing treatment
Drains: the lead pipe under the bedroom appears to be leaking
Leak signs: I understand the lead pipe under the bedroom and bathroom have leaks, there could a heating system leak
Leak assessment: I believe the property is suffering from various leaks
Floor: There is damage to this partially suspended timber floor
Timber assessment: there is rotten timber including the suspended timber floor to the rear. The timber is not structurally significant
Last dry: dampness seems to have been a problem for a long time
Ventilation assessment: the bathroom and kitchen ventilation are insufficient

W.H.O. indoor air quality guidelines

“Management of moisture requires proper control of temperature and ventilation to avoid excess humidity, condensation on surfaces and excess moisture in materials. Ventilation should be distributed effectively throughout spaces, and stagnant air zones should be avoided.”

FACT: Houses contain 30 – 40 litres of water as vapour typically. Each day, each occupant adds on average about 1.5 litres as follows:

Each shower results in 1/2L condensing (each additional shower in a series won’t add as much as the first, so long as the door is kept closed)
Vapour from drying clothes releases about ½ litre per day if dried indoors
Respiration releases about ¾ litre per day (of which ¼ l at night)
Cooking produces about ¼ litre per day per person
Unvented vapour can cause condensation, mould and allergenic dust mites. The simple rule for keeping your property dry and mould free is;
Vent out as much vapour as produced, each and every day!
Central heating and double-glazing reduce background ventilation. To overcome this you should use mechanical extractors. Where properties are rented, consider using monitoring devices (such as a Govee WIFI hygrometer) and if necessary, install continuous flow extractors, but beware there can be a thermal cost caused by continuous heat lost.

FACT: dehumidifiers are a win-win as all energy is released as heat with a 50% bonus through enthalpy, but they need to be targeted to the source of the vapour or location of dampness and mould, should be insufficient, typically 20 L/ day theoretical capacity with 6 Litre container and decanted daily or drained into a sink or similar.

FACTS about Condensation and Mould

FACT: warm air holds more water vapour than cold air. The warmer it is, the more air’s capacity to hold water vapour. Conversely the colder it is, the less capacity, until air cannot hold any more vapour. We call that the dew point or 100%RH. As soon air reaches capacity, condensation will form on the coldest surfaces.
FACT: Mould and dust mites
FACT: Mould only grows when air is humid for long periods. In the occupied home environment, it is 6 hours over 85% RH. For properties that are unoccupied for long periods, it is 75% RH for many days of consistent and high humidity. Avoid allowing the surface relative humidity of cold walls to exceed 85% RH by ventilating, dehumidifying, insulating, and ensuring airflow, particularly in cold corners, base of walls and ceilings, eaves, and cold window and door reveals.
FACT: Dust mites are microscopic insects that can cause allergies. They grow in similar conditions to mould. So ventilate more to avoid allergies.
FACT: Health concerns: There are no health and safety issues from damp noted. It is in the occupier’s interests to keep a property properly ventilated or dehumidified and temperatures above the dew and mould points throughout the property, thereby reducing the health risk associated with dust mites, bacteria, protozoans, as well as decorative spoiling caused by mould.

TIPS To Stay Condensation and Mould Free

TIP: Reduce the production of vapour at source:
TIP: Keep bathroom extractor fans running, or window open for at least 30 minutes.
TIP: Keep bathroom doors closed at all times, and bathroom windows open safely.
TIP: When filling the bath, run the cold water first then add the hot.
TIP: Dry clothes outside, in a dryer, in a closed room with a dehumidifier or window open, never on radiators or heated rail without a door closed and a means of removing the vapour.
TIP: Cook with tops on pots and pans, avoiding excessive boiling.
TIP: Keep the kitchen door closed and extractor fan on where possible.
TIP:Mechanical vents are best, but if you only have passive vents, such as a whole in the wall or chimney, then vents open with space for air to move, insulate where possible.
TIP: Keep trickle vents open or alternatively, open windows on safety locks.
TIP: Stop mould forming:
* Maintain external wall temperatures above 12°C, with low background heating.
* Declutter leaving space for warm air to circulate around cold surfaces.
* Where possible, avoid placing wardrobes and furniture against external walls.
* Avoid overfilling wardrobes and cupboards as it restricts air circulation.
* Use dehumidifiers or small wardrobe dehumidifying bags and replace regularly.
* Wipe mould and condensation off walls and clothes as soon as it appears.
TIP: Monitor relative humidity
* We recommend monitoring temperature and relative humidity with a data logger to see what is happening.

Help It takes teamwork to solve damp and mould issues in properties. It isn’t easy or obvious. We can help with damp.ai. Time permitting the plan is to run online workshops for solving damp issues, within the community.

Background

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Video evidence, tips & tricks

Data Evidence Explanations

Data loggers

In conclusion, from the data loggers

Evidence & Illustrations

Remedial actions

Recommended remedial actions

To keep the property dry

Optimal remedial actions

Actions if all else fails

Conclusions & reasoning

Conclusion summary for main concern

Reasoning

Root cause fix should save: £30,000

Risk of rising damp: highly unlikely

Survey report & limitations

Site visit 240109SH1000

Damp & Survey methodology

Property & circumstances

W.H.O. indoor air quality guidelines

FACTS about Condensation and Mould

TIPS To Stay Condensation and Mould Free

JPS

Joint Position Statement

RICS, PCA, HISTORIC ENGLAND JPS REPORT

1 A summary of the surveyor’s observations, including an Assessment of Significance.

2 The importance of regular building maintenance and how a lack of even basic maintenance can lead to problems arising. This is especially important and relevant to roofs, gutters, hidden gutters, rainwater disposal and changes in external ground levels.

3 An impartial diagnosis of the damp problem, which should be clearly explained and laid out systematically to communicate the relevant risks to the reader.

4 Where recommendations for the repair and recovery of moisture-affected structures are stated, the solutions should be clearly explained and prioritised as appropriate.

5 The client should be provided with alternative options for which each recommendation should include advantages and disadvantages and the relevant cost and time implications.

6 Where monitoring and staged interventions are appropriate or beneficial, the client should be informed of the reasons for these options, together with the likely cost and time implications of such recovery strategies.

7 Where appropriate, clearly state whether the building concerned represents a financial risk to the buyer or lender and why.

8 Any conflicts of interest should be clearly stated.

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