Background
A small patch of damp has been identified in the kitchen, observed as a colourless damp patch on the wall. The property, which is currently being sold, underwent a survey that indicated minor signs of dampness. Subsequently, the buyers have requested a damp survey as a follow-up.
The buyers’ homebuyer surveyor suggested the presence of “rising damp” but provided no supporting evidence, aside from a potentially elevated damp meter reading at the base of a wall. It should be noted that such readings indicate dampness but do not confirm the source of the moisture. Rising damp has a very specific source, not found in London, that is groundwater in contact with the base of a wall.
Data loggers – see damp.ai/detect

The data from the data loggers show:
- Consistent surface temperature around 10°C and a dew point with relatively little variation, between about 6°C and 11°C, when it was raining – this suggests no heating, insufficient ventilation and penetrating damp.
- The surface relative humidity reached 100%RH, when condensation forms at the base of cold walls, on the morning of the survey. Even if the drain wasn’t blocked, there would have been a risk of condensation on walls. All properties tend to be colder at the base of walls. This is especially true for properties with sub-floor voids, where heat can escape.
Conclusion from data loggers
The data is inline with penetrating damp and condensation from insufficient vapour removal. In my opinion, no property should be left without some form of vapour control, the most economic and best for the planet being dehumidification. Ventilation is, by itself, is insufficient without heating.
Evidence & Illustrations



While it is correct to define rising damp narrowly as the rise of groundwater, this definition overlooks other potential sources of moisture ingress. Nonetheless, all forms of water ingress should be addressed and mitigated at their source. Groundwater, which originates from below the water table, is a geological phenomenon and not easily rectified. In contrast, other sources of moisture typically arise from defects that can and should be remedied.
In cases of high sub-floor relative humidity, the most common root cause is a mains water or drainage leak, exacerbated by insufficient sub-floor ventilation. While inadequate ventilation is not the primary cause, it acts as a compounding factor that worsens the situation.




If you rent out a property in the future, it is advisable to include a contractual obligation for tenants not to turn off the fan at the isolator. It should only be switched off when necessary and turned back on promptly. Additionally, tenants should be instructed to keep the bathroom door closed when the fan is running, ensure the fan is cleaned regularly, and its extraction rate is checked to confirm it meets the required standard.
I believe the dampness at the base of the walls has been significantly exacerbated by poor ventilation practices. The most effective, economical, and environmentally friendly way to manage an unoccupied property is to install a standard 20+ litre per day dehumidifier. Place it on a draining board with a hose draining into a sink and set it to maintain a relative humidity of 70% RH.
To keep the property dry | |
|---|---|
| Unblock rear drain | |
| Use a tool such as a “Steel Drain Lifting Inch Pulling Cover” (available on Amazon for £16.86) to make it easier to lift and remove the drain cover. Wear rubber gloves to clear the blockage safely. This task requires a modest level of skill, effort and tenacity. For a keen home enthusiast or a general builder, it should take no more than one hour. | £100 |
| By pass front drain | |
| Using a 90° elbow or bend, attach a 2-metre downpipe horizontally, with a slight downward slope, to connect to the existing downpipe. This will help discharge rainwater away from the property and towards the street. Consider adding support beneath the elbow or horizontal section for stability. During a heavy rainstorm, check that the system is free from leaks. This task requires a modest level of skill, effort, and tenacity. For a keen home enthusiast or a general builder, it should take no more than one hour. | £100 |
| Increase sub-floor air flow | |
| Sub-floor ventilation serves as a safety measure to mitigate risks should significant moisture enter the sub-floor. If there is both moisture and poor ventilation, the risk of rot and condensation bypassing the damp proof course increases. Improving ventilation can be challenging due to limited accessibility. Consider temporarily removing the decking, particularly near the rear air bricks, to allow better airflow. If humidity remains high—above 85% RH—even during dry periods when it hasn’t rained for several days, installing a sub-floor extractor fan, such as an inline fan, may be necessary. A company called ELTA previously manufactured a Sub-Floor Ventilation Fan, which many clients with similar issues have successfully used. While ELTA has since ceased operations, a similar unit is available at this site: https://www.builders-superstore.co.uk/product/ventilation-fan-sub-floor-mains-powered/. Vapour levels in the sub-floor should decrease within a few months of resolving the rainwater damage. The major cost associated with sub-floor fans is typically the electrical installation. However, using a simple plug and extension cable, and mounting the fan below ground, can minimise costs while being equally effective. | £500 |
| sub-floor rot | |
| In the unlikely event that rot causes significant damage in the sub-floor—and there is no indication of this occurring yet—a general builder or similar professional will need to gain access and strengthen the timber. This is unlikely to cost more than approximately £1,000 while the floor remains easily accessible. The risk of rot will disappear once the rainwater drains are repaired and the sub-floor ventilation is improved. | £1,000 |
| Monitor sub-floor relative humidity | |
| Place one data logger in the sub-floor void and another outside. Compare the relative humidity and dew points recorded below the floor with those outside. Aim to increase sub-floor ventilation (see guidance above) until the sub-floor humidity consistently tends towards 85% RH or below, and the internal dew point is regularly within 1°C or less, of the external dew point. Dew points indicate the amount of vapour in the air and are a critical measure in assessing moisture levels. Both readings will be influenced by air from the property. Efforts should be made to minimise vapour travelling from the house into the sub-floor void, where it could condense and exacerbate moisture-related issues. | £20 |
| Monitor dampness in walls | |
| Mark improvements on damp walls with a pencil line or sticky note and use a moisture meter, such as the Dr. Meter Wood Moisture Meter 2 in 1 Pin & Pinless Multifunctional Water Detector £23.99 or similar damp meter, to log and monitor reduction to dampness in walls. By doing so, you will gain early confidence in these recommendations. | £23 |
| Increase internal ventilation | |
| Keep the bathroom extractor fan running constantly until the dew point in the bathroom matches that of the rest of the property. Use a data logger to monitor this. Typically, this process takes about 30 minutes with the bathroom door closed, but your fan may take longer as it only extracts at a rate of 2 litres per second, compared to the recommended 15 litres per second. Additionally, the kitchen extractor fan is not ducted to the outside, meaning vapour is simply being recycled within the property. To minimise moisture, cook with lids on pots and pans, and reduce the heat to a simmer. Keep the kitchen door closed while cooking, and ensure windows or external doors in the kitchen remain open for ventilation. Avoid drying clothes indoors without using a dehumidifier or a dedicated dryer. Measure internal vapour levels (dew point), and if the internal dew point exceeds the external temperature, take steps to increase ventilation. | |
| Monitor internal vapour | |
| Use devices like the ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer to monitor relative humidity and temperature near walls or ceilings, look to keep the dew point at or below the external temperature, The dew point is shown on the app (if not use https://mouldpoint.co.uk to calculate the dew point from humidity and temperature readings). Increase ventilation or dehumidification as required. Note excess ventilation results in lost energy. The cold air replacing the warm air will have a dew point that is below the outside temperature. When it is raining, the dew point will be higher, so you may need more ventilation to achieve the same reduction in dew point. In winter, there is no risk in condensation inside, if the internal dew point is below the external temperature. | |
| Remedial actions – estimate of costs | £1,743 |
Actions if all else fails | |
|---|---|
| Consider installing a continuous flow bathroom extractor fan | |
| Consider installing a continuous-flow bathroom extractor fan such as the Vent-Axia Extractor Fan with Humidistat and Timer or the Brookvent Airstream DMEV 100 HT. Both are continuous-running extractor fans equipped with humidistats and timers. Vent Placement: Ideally, the vent should be located away from the door and closer to the shower to effectively remove moisture at its source. Ducting: The ducting should preferably be rigid to reduce air resistance, which enhances the fan’s efficiency. Additionally, insulating the ducting can help reduce the risk of condensation forming inside the pipe. | £500 |
| Duct out kitchen extractor fan | |
| Consider instructing general builder to duct out kitchen extractor fan (hole required to duct outside, which may require freeholder permission). | |
| Optimal actions – estimate of costs | £500 |
I conclude that the primary cause of internal dampness is excessive vapour in the sub-floor void, which is sufficiently humid to condense on the damp-proof course, creating symptoms resembling rising damp. The root cause is likely the rear rainwater drain, though the front drain may also be contributing. I was unable to check for a mains water leak—another common cause of high sub-floor humidity—as the external mains water stopcock appeared to be defective. However, an alternative method of checking is available. Sub-floor ventilation is poor, partly due to the decking obstructing airflow from the rear. There were no signs of dry rot in the sub-floor, which is typically the primary concern with dampness in this area. Furthermore, the kitchen extractor fan is not externally ducted, and the bathroom extractor fan is running slowly and was, in any case, switched off. Both issues contribute to dampness at the base of cold external walls. There is a financially significant risk; refer to JPS.7 below.
Moisture entering a sub-floor void, with insufficient ventilation can lead to excess vapour resulting in condensation above the damp proof course leading to rising damp like symptoms.
By taking a root cause approach, rather than a focus on blocking the symptoms of damp the savings are likely to be around £5,000. This contrasts with typical damp proofing contractor recommendations such as chemical treatment for rising damp and untargeted ventilation, such as PIV systems.
Flood risk: No risk See Flood Risk (note most flood risk is not from groundwater).
Sub-soil rocks: Rocks with essentially no groundwater See British Geological Survey.
Therefore risk of Rising Damp: remote possibility, see explanation by Dr Robyn Pender of Historic England.
I confirm that I inspected the property on . I conclude that the primary cause of internal dampness is excessive vapour in the sub-floor void, which is sufficiently humid to condense on the damp-proof course, creating symptoms resembling rising damp. the root cause is likely the rear rainwater drain, though the fron. All buildings can be exposed to unvented vapour and external dampness to some degree. You will mitigate the risk of damp if you follow all our recommendations. This report is intended to be read in full including supplementary links in this report. Observations and opinions must not be taken in isolation. Given the right weather conditions almost any house can be affected by rain. Like any building, you need to be aware of the risks of damp arising in the future and should plan a programme of monitoring, prevention and maintenance accordingly. Damp Surveys Ltd reports are designed to provide you with an informed, independent expert opinion as to the cause of dampness in the property, together with any recommendations for further investigation or remedial work. We do not warrant any findings in this report unless we enter into a separate warranty agreement with you.
The survey was conducted during daylight hours. Damp will be more noticeable at night and when the weather is colder and more humid. Gutters are more likely to fail when full of leaves and during periods of prolonged rain and adverse wind. We make best endeavours but cannot guarantee being able to identify all forms of damp, rot and insect infestation affecting the property.
We carried out a careful and thorough inspection of as much of the property as was accessible. However, when a full inspection is not possible, we make a professional judgement regarding the likelihood of a defect being present. In certain circumstances, this may lead to a recommendation for further action to open up an area for additional investigation. We were unable to inspect the entire roof, all the guttering, and some of the drains. Similarly, inspection of woodwork or other parts of the structure that were covered, unexposed, poorly lit or inaccessible such as in the loft, cellar, or sub-floor void was not possible, and therefore we are unable to assert that such parts of the property are free from defect. There were no obvious signs of damp resulting from these limitations
Negligence claims must be made within 90 days of the damp survey site visit. Clients must make best endeavours to monitor humidity and temperature on a damp wall and the closest source of humidity, by purchasing and placing two data loggers for example the Smart Hygrometer measuring humidity on the wall and nearest source of vapour, before and after following our recommendations. These data loggers have sufficient memory capacity to store 90 days of data.
This report is for the sole use of the client (named on the invoice, but omitted here for anonymity) for whom the survey was undertaken and can only be relied upon for 90 days from the survey date. Unless expressly stated otherwise in this report, nothing in this report confers or is intended to confer any rights on any third party pursuant to the Contracts (Rights of Third Parties) Act 1999.
Simon Hichens
Site visit
Simon Hichens BSc Chemistry RICS Qualified Expert Witness (Chartered Surveyors)
PCA Certificated Surveyor of Dampness & Timber in Buildings (Property Care Association)
Damp Surveys Ltd, 119 Longton Ave London SE26 6RF Reg. 10977488 (England & Wales)
Founder of damp.aï & Member of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB)
Our damp surveys are designed to provide a holistic diagnosis that identifies and deals with causes rather than a focus on symptoms. Symptoms will disappear over time, once damp is stopped at source. We look for risks of dampness, but unless moisture is present, we can’t guarantee to identify all risks of future moisture. Our reports:
- identify root cause(s) of major unwanted dampness within the property,
- identify major symptoms of unwanted dampness,
- identify major structural damage caused by dampness,
- recommend actions and estimated costs to stop damp at source and mitigate its effects,
- recognise that treating damp is often a staged approach, treating obvious causes first.
Understanding damp
For survey purposes, damp is defined as unwanted water. Water brings life. We need it. Unfortunately, fungus and insects also thrive in water. While a damp wall can cause decorative spoiling, it is not moisture, but the life it brings that causes the greatest concern in the home environment. FACT: vapour causes 85% of residential damp problems.
Independence and Methodology
Our only income is through damp survey fees. We are independent of contractors and never profit from remedial work. We do not receive or pay any fees or other inducements. Our motivation is peace of mind and practical, durable solutions. We use an array of equipment to identify the root cause of damp within walls. Our damp surveys follow guidance from RICS, Historic England and PCA joint position statement and support RICS’s highest standard, level 3 “Home Survey Standard” (HSS).
During the survey we assess likelihood of rising damp*, mainswater leak, penetrating damp, condensation, timber rot and woodworm. We profile the damp patches and consider the likely sources of dampness and test ventilation against building regulations requirements. We consider changes to the property and factors just before the first sighting of damp.
W.H.O. indoor air quality guidelines
“Management of moisture requires proper control of temperature and ventilation to avoid excess humidity, condensation on surfaces and excess moisture in materials. Ventilation should be distributed effectively throughout spaces, and stagnant air zones should be avoided.”
FACT: Houses contain 30 – 40 litres of water as vapour typically. Each day, each occupant adds on average about 1.5 litres as follows:
- Each shower results in 1/2L condensing (each additional shower in a series won’t add as much as the first, so long as the door is kept closed)
- Vapour from drying clothes releases about ½ litre per day if dried indoors
- Respiration releases about ¾ litre per day (of which ¼ l at night)
- Cooking produces about ¼ litre per day per person
- Unvented vapour can cause condensation, mould and allergenic dust mites. The simple rule for keeping your property dry and mould free is;
- Vent out as much vapour as produced, each and every day!
- Central heating and double-glazing reduce background ventilation. To overcome this you should use mechanical extractors. Where properties are rented, consider using monitoring devices (such as a Govee WIFI hygrometer) and if necessary, install continuous flow extractors, but beware there can be a thermal cost caused by continuous heat lost.
FACTS about Condensation and Mould
- FACT: warm air holds more water vapour than cold air. The warmer it is, the more air’s capacity to hold water vapour. Conversely the colder it is, the less capacity, until air cannot hold any more vapour. We call that the dew point or 100%RH. As soon air reaches capacity, condensation will form on the coldest surfaces.
- FACT: Mould and dust mites
- FACT: Mould only grows when air is humid for long periods. In the occupied home environment, it is 6 hours over 85% RH. For properties that are unoccupied for long periods, it is 75% RH for many days of consistent and high humidity. Avoid allowing the surface relative humidity of cold walls to exceed 85% RH by ventilating, dehumidifying, insulating, and ensuring airflow, particularly in cold corners, base of walls and ceilings, eaves, and cold window and door reveals.
- FACT: Dust mites are microscopic insects that can cause allergies. They grow in similar conditions to mould. So ventilate more to avoid allergies.
- FACT: Health concerns: There are no health and safety issues from damp noted. It is in the occupier’s interests to keep a property properly ventilated or dehumidified and temperatures above the dew and mould points throughout the property, thereby reducing the health risk associated with dust mites, bacteria, protozoans, as well as decorative spoiling caused by mould.
TIPS To Stay Condensation and Mould Free
- TIP: Reduce the production of vapour at source:
- TIP: Keep bathroom extractor fans running, or window open for at least 30 minutes.
- TIP: Keep bathroom doors closed at all times, and bathroom windows open safely.
- TIP: When filling the bath, run the cold water first then add the hot.
- TIP: Dry clothes outside, in a dryer, in a closed room with a dehumidifier or window open, never on radiators or heated rail without a door closed and a means of removing the vapour.
- TIP: Cook with tops on pots and pans, avoiding excessive boiling.
- TIP: Keep the kitchen door closed and extractor fan on where possible.
- TIP:Mechanical vents are best, but if you only have passive vents, such as a whole in the wall or chimney, then vents open with space for air to move, insulate where possible.
- TIP: Keep trickle vents open or alternatively, open windows on safety locks.
- TIP: Stop mould forming:
* Maintain external wall temperatures above 12°C, with low background heating.
* Declutter leaving space for warm air to circulate around cold surfaces.
* Where possible, avoid placing wardrobes and furniture against external walls.
* Avoid overfilling wardrobes and cupboards as it restricts air circulation.
* Use dehumidifiers or small wardrobe dehumidifying bags and replace regularly.
* Wipe mould and condensation off walls and clothes as soon as it appears. - TIP: Monitor relative humidity
* We recommend monitoring temperature and relative humidity with a data logger to see what is happening.

