Background
The property was flagged for damp issues during a homebuyer’s survey, which noted dampness at the base of the wall but did not diagnose rising damp. Subsequent quotes from damp proofing companies, including one from Kenwood, diagnosed rising damp and included works costing up to £22,000 plus VAT and redecoration. None of the surveys identified inappropriate drainage, such as a blocked rainwater drain at the rear, or insufficient sub-floor ventilation.
Data loggers – see damp.ai/detect

The above graph comes from the data logger marked K, which I assume is the kitchen, compared to BT, presumably the bathroom. The property is vacant, so the excess vapour comes from vapour drying, presumably helped by the industrial dehumidifier. The dew point, the temperature when condensation starts, is also a measure of vapour in the air. There is a steady decline in the vapour, as seen in the dark blue dew point line, suggesting that the flat is drying out. You should continue to measure above and below ground and use damp.ai/detect to monitor vapour above and below floor, including once the property is occupied.
Conclusion from data loggers
The property is showing signs of drying out.
Evidence & Illustrations
Excerpt from a quote provided at the time of the purchase by a damp-proofer:

The only element of the damp-proofing company’s quote that has any remedial benefit is the Aco drain, even that should not be absolutely necessary if the sub-floor ventilation is working well. However, not identifying fundamental issues such as that the rainwater drain is blocked, lack of sub-floor ventilation, past damp proofing treatment, signs of hygroscopic salts from the chimney breast and render cracks on your neighbour’s side, undermines the credibility and professionalism of their quote, and is sadly in line with damp-proofer type “damp surveys”.












Other matters

To keep the property dry | |
|---|---|
| Address sub-floor damp issues | |
| Dry out the sub-floor before replacing floorboards using a dehumidifier and sizable fan – e.g. 50cm. Unblock or replace the rear rainwater drain, or install a water butt as an interim solution. Direct rainwater away from the property via appropriate drainage. Ensure sub-floor ventilation is functional by unblocking periscopic vents or replacing them if necessary. Monitor sub-floor vapour, by placing a data logger in the sub-floor void and another outside (covered to protect it from excessive heat, sunlight and rain). Compare the relative humidity and dew points recorded below the floor with those outside. Aim to increase sub-floor ventilation (see guidance above) until the sub-floor humidity consistently tends towards 85% RH or below, and the internal dew point is regularly within 1°C or less, of the external dew point. Dew points indicate the amount of vapour in the air and are a critical measure in assessing moisture levels. Both readings will be influenced by air from the property. Efforts should be made to minimise vapour travelling from the house into the sub-floor void, where it could condense and exacerbate moisture-related issues. | £1,000 |
| Mitigate external damp risks | |
| Check and repair any cracks in the exterior walls to prevent water ingress. Address external render cracks by raking out, that is slightly enlarging and removing loose material and filling with an acrylic based caulk for small gaps and cement based mortar for larger gaps over 3mm. Paint impermeable render with impermeable masonry paint, such as supplied by Zinsser or Dulux. Ensure gaps around windows and sills are sealed with mastic or caulk. Check for overflowing rainwater goods, including gutters and downpipes around all sides of the property, including the neighbour’s side. I would also look at grey water pipes and heating overflow pipes, while they are in use. | £600 |
| Use a dehumidifier | |
| The current industrial dehumidifier is effective but may be overkill for long-term use. Two 20-litre dehumidifiers with one or two fans can achieve comparable, arguably better results at a lower cost. Consider models such as: PureMate 20L/Day Portable & Compact Dehumidifier with a 6.5-litre tank (£179.99, refrigerant). Duux Bora Smart Dehumidifier (DXDH02UK) (£300, refrigerant type dehumidifier, these are more effective than standard models when the temperature is below 8-10°C). Meaco DD8L Zambezi (£260, desiccant, ideal for colder environments). These are Which! Best Buys, but many alternatives are available. Choose a dehumidifier based on daily capacity (minimum 20L), tank size, low noise level, continuous pipe-out option, and programmable settings. Dehumidifiers are reliable and safe, with a risk profile similar to fridges. If the above models are unavailable, evaluate others using these criteria. For vacant properties, use a dehumidifier set to 70%RH, dripping into a sink, especially in winter. This method is more efficient than ventilation for managing humidity and protecting against damp-related issues. | £400 |
| Monitor internal vapour | |
| Use devices like the ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer to monitor relative humidity and temperature near walls or ceilings, look to keep the dew point at or below the external temperature, The dew point is shown on the app (if not use https://mouldpoint.co.uk to calculate the dew point from humidity and temperature readings). Increase ventilation or dehumidification as required. Note excess ventilation results in lost energy. The cold air replacing the warm air will have a dew point that is below the outside temperature. When it is raining, the dew point will be higher, so you may need more ventilation to achieve the same reduction in dew point. In winter, there is no risk in condensation inside, if the internal dew point is below the external temperature. | |
| Follow Dew’s Law | |
| When the property is being inhabited, follow Dew’s Law to effectively manage internal vapour, it is crucial to maintain the internal vapour levels, as measured by the dew point in degrees Centigrade, below the external temperature. This can be achieved through adequate ventilation and the use of dehumidifiers. Monitor the internal Dew Point with a reliable device, such as the Habotest Hygrometer or Dew Point Meter HT607, or utilise the sensorblue app paired with the ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer. These tools help in accurately gauging humidity levels, ensuring they remain optimal. For more detailed information on detecting and managing damp issues, please visit https://damp.ai/detect. | |
| Remedial actions – estimate of costs | £2,000 |
Actions if all else fails | |
|---|---|
| Install a kitchen extractor | |
| Consider installing a kitchen extractor fan, ducted out, ideally with ridged ducting, to minimise airflow. Also I would make sure it is quiet, better slow and quiet than fast, noisy and rarely used. It is also better to have a door that can be closed when humid in the kitchen. | £800 |
| Reduce Risk of Rainwater | |
| Ideally, the patio should be at least three bricks below the sub-floor vent to minimise the risk of rainwater splashing into the vent. Additionally, the patio should be lower than the damp-proof course (DPC). However, this may not always be practical. As an alternative, an ACO drain can be installed, connected to the rainwater drainage system. To further protect the wall, a cement-based mortar plinth can be added at the base, with all gaps sealed. A 75 mm (3-inch) fillet of mortar, sloping away from the wall, is recommended to direct rainwater away effectively. The ideal plinth height is approximately 600 mm to reduce splashing risk. These measures are less critical if there is adequate sub-floor ventilation and the humidity in the sub-floor is regularly monitored. Ventilation should be increased if the humidity remains above 85% RH for extended periods, especially during dry weather. | £1,000 |
| Hygroscopic salts | |
| Hygroscopic salts may resemble grease stains but rest assured, they’re harmless. They don’t cause damage or mould, yet can appear unsightly, especially during summer heatwaves, potentially complicating property sales or rentals. Keep this report handy to reassure prospective buyers of their benign nature. Effective Solutions: The prime method to conceal these salts involves an impermeable blocker with at least 300mm overlap, preventing the spread of any damp appearance. Aim for a uniform treatment across wall sections to ensure consistent humidity interaction. Remember, these salts often lurk just below the surface. Cost-Effective Remediation Methods: Zinsser Cover Stain: The simplest, most affordable approach. Two coats of this solvent-based primer-sealer should do the trick, costing about £15 plus potential labour. It’s user-friendly, easy to remove and reapply, making it ideal for DIY fixes. For larger areas, consider a gloss paint layer between two Zinsser coats for uniformity. This is a homeowner-friendly task but can also be efficiently tackled by a builder as part of a bigger project. Sempatap/Wallrock: Ideal for mildly cold walls, this lining paper creates a barrier, offering slight insulation. It’s a half-day job costing about £100 per linear metre. Thermal Insulating Plasterboard: For very cold walls, removing plaster and installing this board with a vapour barrier is best, mirroring professional damp proofing. It’s a day-long task, costing around £400 per linear metre. Note on Damp Proofing Slurry: Often less effective, as it can activate salts, it’s also invasive and costly. Starting Point: Zinsser Cover Stain is your go-to. It’s budget-friendly and effective for immediate action, with the option to escalate to plasterboard installation if necessary. Humidity Management: Excessive humidity can highlight salts at the impermeable material’s edge. If this happens, a second Zinsser application is recommended. | £50 |
| Optimal actions – estimate of costs | £1,850 |
I conclude that the primary cause of internal dampness in is penetrating damp both to the sides of the property, such as through cracked render, and to the sub-floor from a blocked drain and inappropriate drainage, made worse by blocked sub-floor ventilation. Condensation from poor ventilation would have exacerbated the internal dampness.
Your focus should be on returning the property walls and sub-floor to something close to the original, in terms of protection against rain, including light of the surround ground levels, proper drainage, sub-floor ventilation and good, uncracked render. I will be giving you more pragmatic tips for achieving this.
By taking a root cause approach, rather than a focus on blocking the symptoms of damp the savings are likely to be around £30,000. This contrasts with typical damp proofing contractor recommendations such as chemical treatment for rising damp and untargeted ventilation, such as PIV systems.
Flood risk: No risk See Flood Risk (note most flood risk is not from groundwater).
Sub-soil rocks: Near low productive aquifer with intergranular flow See British Geological Survey.
Therefore risk of Rising Damp: , see explanation by Dr Robyn Pender of Historic England.
I confirm that I inspected the property on . I conclude that the primary cause of internal dampness in is penetrating damp both to the sides of the property, such as through cracked render, and to the sub-floor from a blocked drain and inappropriate drainage, made worse by blocked sub-floor ventilation. condensation. All buildings can be exposed to unvented vapour and external dampness to some degree. You will mitigate the risk of damp if you follow all our recommendations. This report is intended to be read in full including supplementary links in this report. Observations and opinions must not be taken in isolation. Given the right weather conditions almost any house can be affected by rain. Like any building, you need to be aware of the risks of damp arising in the future and should plan a programme of monitoring, prevention and maintenance accordingly. Damp Surveys Ltd reports are designed to provide you with an informed, independent expert opinion as to the cause of dampness in the property, together with any recommendations for further investigation or remedial work. We do not warrant any findings in this report unless we enter into a separate warranty agreement with you.
The survey was conducted during daylight hours. Damp will be more noticeable at night and when the weather is colder and more humid. Gutters are more likely to fail when full of leaves and during periods of prolonged rain and adverse wind. We make best endeavours but cannot guarantee being able to identify all forms of damp, rot and insect infestation affecting the property.
We carried out a careful and thorough inspection of as much of the property as was accessible. However, when a full inspection is not possible, we make a professional judgement regarding the likelihood of a defect being present. In certain circumstances, this may lead to a recommendation for further action to open up an area for additional investigation. We were unable to inspect the entire roof, all the guttering, and some of the drains. Similarly, inspection of woodwork or other parts of the structure that were covered, unexposed, poorly lit or inaccessible such as in the loft, cellar, or sub-floor void was not possible, and therefore we are unable to assert that such parts of the property are free from defect. There were no obvious signs of damp resulting from these limitations
Negligence claims must be made within 90 days of the damp survey site visit. Clients must make best endeavours to monitor humidity and temperature on a damp wall and the closest source of humidity, by purchasing and placing two data loggers for example the Smart Hygrometer measuring humidity on the wall and nearest source of vapour, before and after following our recommendations. These data loggers have sufficient memory capacity to store 90 days of data.
This report is for the sole use of the client (named on the invoice, but omitted here for anonymity) for whom the survey was undertaken and can only be relied upon for 90 days from the survey date. Unless expressly stated otherwise in this report, nothing in this report confers or is intended to confer any rights on any third party pursuant to the Contracts (Rights of Third Parties) Act 1999.
Simon Hichens
Site visit
Simon Hichens BSc Chemistry RICS Qualified Expert Witness (Chartered Surveyors)
PCA Certificated Surveyor of Dampness & Timber in Buildings (Property Care Association)
Damp Surveys Ltd, 119 Longton Ave London SE26 6RF Reg. 10977488 (England & Wales)
Founder of damp.aï & Member of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB)
Our damp surveys are designed to provide a holistic diagnosis that identifies and deals with causes rather than a focus on symptoms. Symptoms will disappear over time, once damp is stopped at source. We look for risks of dampness, but unless moisture is present, we can’t guarantee to identify all risks of future moisture. Our reports:
- identify root cause(s) of major unwanted dampness within the property,
- identify major symptoms of unwanted dampness,
- identify major structural damage caused by dampness,
- recommend actions and estimated costs to stop damp at source and mitigate its effects,
- recognise that treating damp is often a staged approach, treating obvious causes first.
Understanding damp
For survey purposes, damp is defined as unwanted water. Water brings life. We need it. Unfortunately, fungus and insects also thrive in water. While a damp wall can cause decorative spoiling, it is not moisture, but the life it brings that causes the greatest concern in the home environment. FACT: vapour causes 85% of residential damp problems.
Independence and Methodology
Our only income is through damp survey fees. We are independent of contractors and never profit from remedial work. We do not receive or pay any fees or other inducements. Our motivation is peace of mind and practical, durable solutions. We use an array of equipment to identify the root cause of damp within walls. Our damp surveys follow guidance from RICS, Historic England and PCA joint position statement and support RICS’s highest standard, level 3 “Home Survey Standard” (HSS).
During the survey we assess likelihood of rising damp*, mainswater leak, penetrating damp, condensation, timber rot and woodworm. We profile the damp patches and consider the likely sources of dampness and test ventilation against building regulations requirements. We consider changes to the property and factors just before the first sighting of damp.
- Rising damp concern: You were concern you might have rising damp.
- Damp treatment: Despite the low risk of rising damp, there has been an attempt at chemical treatment against rising damp. Rising damp treatment is normally a sign of insufficient ventilation. The walls have been drilled into by about 200mm and injected with damp proofing chemicals. In theory the chemicals are absorbed into the brick pores reducing the bricks ability to absorb moisture. Walls are replaced with damp proofers slurry. This can cause problems with absorption imbalance, resulting in increased condensation on other walls or vapour becoming absorbed and trapped behind the slurry. There was evidence of surface condensation in areas probably not treated with replacement plaster but no evidence of trapped vapour. The solution is through ventilation and humidity control.
- Background: The property was flagged for damp issues during a homebuyer’s survey, which noted dampness at the base of the wall but did not diagnose rising damp. Subsequent quotes from damp proofing companies, including one from Kenwood, diagnosed rising damp and included works costing up to £22,000 plus VAT and redecoration. None of the surveys identified inappropriate drainage, such as a blocked rainwater drain at the rear, or insufficient sub-floor ventilation.
“Management of moisture requires proper control of temperature and ventilation to avoid excess humidity, condensation on surfaces and excess moisture in materials. Ventilation should be distributed effectively throughout spaces, and stagnant air zones should be avoided.”
FACT: Houses contain 30 – 40 litres of water as vapour typically. Each day, each occupant adds on average about 1.5 litres as follows:
- Each shower results in 1/2L condensing (each additional shower in a series won’t add as much as the first, so long as the door is kept closed)
- Vapour from drying clothes releases about ½ litre per day if dried indoors
- Respiration releases about ¾ litre per day (of which ¼ l at night)
- Cooking produces about ¼ litre per day per person
- Unvented vapour can cause condensation, mould and allergenic dust mites. The simple rule for keeping your property dry and mould free is;
- Vent out as much vapour as produced, each and every day!
- Central heating and double-glazing reduce background ventilation. To overcome this you should use mechanical extractors. Where properties are rented, consider using monitoring devices (such as a Govee WIFI hygrometer) and if necessary, install continuous flow extractors, but beware there can be a thermal cost caused by continuous heat lost.
FACTS about Condensation and Mould
- FACT: warm air holds more water vapour than cold air. The warmer it is, the more air’s capacity to hold water vapour. Conversely the colder it is, the less capacity, until air cannot hold any more vapour. We call that the dew point or 100%RH. As soon air reaches capacity, condensation will form on the coldest surfaces.
- FACT: Mould and dust mites
- FACT: Mould only grows when air is humid for long periods. In the occupied home environment, it is 6 hours over 85% RH. For properties that are unoccupied for long periods, it is 75% RH for many days of consistent and high humidity. Avoid allowing the surface relative humidity of cold walls to exceed 85% RH by ventilating, dehumidifying, insulating, and ensuring airflow, particularly in cold corners, base of walls and ceilings, eaves, and cold window and door reveals.
- FACT: Dust mites are microscopic insects that can cause allergies. They grow in similar conditions to mould. So ventilate more to avoid allergies.
- FACT: Health concerns: There are no health and safety issues from damp noted. It is in the occupier’s interests to keep a property properly ventilated or dehumidified and temperatures above the dew and mould points throughout the property, thereby reducing the health risk associated with dust mites, bacteria, protozoans, as well as decorative spoiling caused by mould.
TIPS To Stay Condensation and Mould Free
- TIP: Reduce the production of vapour at source:
- TIP: Keep bathroom extractor fans running, or window open for at least 30 minutes.
- TIP: Keep bathroom doors closed at all times, and bathroom windows open safely.
- TIP: When filling the bath, run the cold water first then add the hot.
- TIP: Dry clothes outside, in a dryer, in a closed room with a dehumidifier or window open, never on radiators or heated rail without a door closed and a means of removing the vapour.
- TIP: Cook with tops on pots and pans, avoiding excessive boiling.
- TIP: Keep the kitchen door closed and extractor fan on where possible.
- TIP:Mechanical vents are best, but if you only have passive vents, such as a whole in the wall or chimney, then vents open with space for air to move, insulate where possible.
- TIP: Keep trickle vents open or alternatively, open windows on safety locks.
- TIP: Stop mould forming:
* Maintain external wall temperatures above 12°C, with low background heating.
* Declutter leaving space for warm air to circulate around cold surfaces.
* Where possible, avoid placing wardrobes and furniture against external walls.
* Avoid overfilling wardrobes and cupboards as it restricts air circulation.
* Use dehumidifiers or small wardrobe dehumidifying bags and replace regularly.
* Wipe mould and condensation off walls and clothes as soon as it appears. - TIP: Monitor relative humidity
* We recommend monitoring temperature and relative humidity with a data logger to see what is happening.
Relevant examples of similar damp issues or remediation:
Home Buyer Surveyor Claims Rising Damp Without Evidence
[mwai_chatbot_v2 id=”default”] Ask A.I. about your report, in the “Type your message” you could ask:
What does the damp report say are the main causes of damp and main actions to stop damp?
¿Qué dice el informe de humedad sobre las principales causas de la humedad y las principales acciones para detenerla?
潮湿报告说什么是潮湿的主要原因和防止潮湿的主要措施?
नमी की रिपोर्ट के अनुसार नमी के मुख्य कारण और नमी को रोकने के लिए मुख्य कार्य क्या हैं?
Que dit le rapport sur l’humidité concernant les principales causes de l’humidité et les principales actions pour l’arrêter?
Was sagt der Feuchtigkeitsbericht über die Hauptursachen von Feuchtigkeit und die Hauptmaßnahmen zur Bekämpfung von Feuchtigkeit?
Что говорится в отчете о влажности о основных причинах влажности и основных действиях по ее устранению?
Cosa dice il rapporto sull’umidità riguardo le principali cause dell’umidità e le principali azioni per fermarla?
