Background
In Balham, London, a ground floor flat has persistent damp issues, particularly noticeable with water patches appearing on the lower half of an external bedroom wall. Symptoms include skirting boards blowing out and white, fluffy mould. Despite unblocking an outdoor drain, the damp persists, and the plaster on the affected wall is deteriorating. The previous owners had damp-proofing treatments, yet damp persists in the area treated.
Data loggers
In conclusion, from the data loggers
- The current vapour levels are as they should be. But the property has been vacant since September. The ventilation from both the bathroom and kitchen is insufficient.
- It is likely that there was excess vapour when occupied. A damp wall can take 6 to 9 months to dry out, and longer with high humidity.
- You should upgrade the ventilation and compensate for any excess vapour (when the internal dew point is above the external temperature) with dehumidification.
Evidence & Illustrations
Hygroscopic salts, originating from historic burning of coal and from equine urine, are also found in groundwater — the source of water in rising damp. The presence of these salts on a wall rarely means there is rising damp, contrary to damp-proofing industry claims. In cities like Greater London, groundwater is rare because it is pumped out to 30M below ground.
Water was found under the cellar, but it is too far below the ground (about 2M) to cause rising damp which only rises to about 1.3M. Indeed rising damp is the most uncommon cause of hygroscopic salts. Were there to be rising damp, then you would expect to see dampness at a similar height throughout the building, which is not the case here.
There is water in the cellar, about 2 meters below the surface. It is too deep down to be drawn up through the brickwork, but could bypass the damp proof course as vapour, potentially condensing above the damp proof course. The sub-floor ventilation has been blocked by the decking to the rear. The damp proofers say they installed an air brick to the rear. I did not see one. They also say they inspected for rot, presumably they did not find any. I could not gain access to the sub-floorvoid to measure the sub-floor humidity. I would do that in the first instance, at least with a hygrometer probe, see recommendation. If the hygrometer probe measures sub-floor humidityabove 85%RH, then you should be concerned about a risk of rot.
To keep the property dry | |
|---|---|
| Hygroscopic salts | |
| Hygroscopic salts may resemble grease stains but rest assured, they’re harmless. They don’t cause damage or mould, yet can appear unsightly, especially during summer heatwaves, potentially complicating property sales or rentals. Keep this report handy to reassure prospective buyers of their benign nature. Effective Solutions: The prime method to conceal these salts involves an impermeable blocker with at least 300mm overlap, preventing the spread of any damp appearance. Aim for a uniform treatment across wall sections to ensure consistent humidity interaction. Remember, these salts often lurk just below the surface. Cost-Effective Remediation Methods: Zinsser B.I.N. Cover Stain: The simplest, most affordable approach. Two coats of this solvent-based primer-sealer should do the trick, costing about £15 plus potential labour. It’s user-friendly, easy to remove and reapply, making it ideal for DIY fixes. For larger areas, consider a gloss paint layer between two Zinsser coats for uniformity. This is a homeowner-friendly task but can also be efficiently tackled by a builder as part of a bigger project. Sempatap/Wallrock: Ideal for mildly cold walls, this lining paper creates a barrier, offering slight insulation. It’s a half-day job costing about £100 per linear metre. Thermal Insulating Plasterboard: For very cold walls, removing plaster and installing this board with a vapour barrier is best, mirroring professional damp proofing. It’s a day-long task, costing around £400 per linear metre. Note on Damp Proofing Slurry: Often less effective, as it can activate salts, it’s also invasive and costly. Starting Point: Zinsser B.I.N. Cover Stain is your go-to. It’s budget-friendly and effective for immediate action, with the option to escalate to plasterboard installation if necessary. Humidity Management: Excessive humidity can highlight salts at the impermeable material’s edge. If this happens, a second Zinsser application is recommended. | £50 |
| Monitor sub-floor humidity | |
| There is a risk of high humidity in the inaccessible sub-floor void causing water to condense above the damp proof course and a risk of rot, including dry rot. Place a hygrometer probe in the sub-floor, the area adjacent to the cellar, under the front and/or rear rooms. It could be from above, such as next to, but the probe not touching radiator pipes, or from the cellar between the wall and floorboards, or you may have to remove a brick at the top of the cellar wall between the cellar and sub-floor to gain access. Use a hygrometer probe (humidity meter with long wire) under the floor (available on Amazon or eBay for about £5). The sub-floor relative humidity will fluctuate. I could not test it during the survey. In the unlikely event that it rises, remaining above 85%RH for an extended period then consider increasing sub-floor ventilation. Ventilation is tricky as there is limited accessibility. A company called ELTA made a Sub-Floor Ventilation Fan, which many clients with similar issues have installed with success, but ELTA have been closed down. This site seems to offer the same unit: https://www.builders-superstore.co.uk/product/ventilation-fan-sub-floor-mains-powered/ you could also dry air out with a dehumidifier, blowing air from the sub-floor into the cellar, then drying it. | £5 |
| Clear gulley | |
| I fear the neighbour’s front gulley is cracked, otherwise you would expect water to be sitting in it as a trap. I also suspect that it is blocked underground. Both could lead to dampness in the front section of your sub-floor, risking condensation above the damp proof course and rot. They could simply divert the rainwater away to the street with a horizontal pipe, thereby bypassing the potentially faulty gully. | |
| Improve bathroom ventilation | |
| Consider installing a continuous flow bathroom extractor fan such as Brookvent Airstream DMEV 100 HT (Continuous Running Extractor Fan with Humidistat Timer) – I have installed one in a rental property I own myself, that was bought cheaply because of mould. Although important to have an isolator, it can be sited in a way that doesn’t tempt tenants to use it. Ideally the vent should be located away from the door, closer to the shower. I would also install a bathroom spring to encourage tenants to keep the door closed. Ideally the ducting should be rigid, for reduced air resistance, and insulated to reduce risk of condensation in pipe. | £300 |
| Remove mould | |
| Consider sanding down mould where dry, and removing it with either bleach or anti-mould foam. I personally use HG Mould Remover Foam Spray, but imagine there is no major difference between brands. | £100 |
| Use fan to expedite drying | |
| Direct a fan towards any damp areas to expedite the drying process. | |
| Use a dehumidifier | |
| To manage relative humidity, especially when poorly ventilated, humid or cold, consider using a dehumidifier such as the PureMate 20L/Day Portable & Compact Dehumidifier with 6.5 Litre (£179.99 Refrigerant), Duux Bora Smart Dehumidifier (DXDH02UK £300 Refrigerant) or Meaco DD8L Zambezi (£260 Desiccant – optimal for colder environments) – all highly rated by Which!. There are numerous alternatives if these specific models are not available. When selecting a dehumidifier, prioritise factors like daily and tank capacity, low noise levels, the availability of a continuous drainage option, and ease of use for programming functions, over aesthetics and weight. The technology behind dehumidifiers is well-established and straightforward to produce, ensuring you can find a suitable alternative focusing on a minimum daily capacity of 20L and the presence of a continuous drainage feature. | £180 |
| Target vapour from clothes drying | |
| Opt for a tumble dryer, dry laundry in a well-ventilated room with the door closed (such as a bathroom with the extractor fan on or window open), or employ a sufficiently high capacity dehumidifier. Avoid drying clothes in poorly ventilated areas and anywhere near cold walls. | |
| Target vapour from cooking | |
| Always use tops on pots and pans to reduce vapour emission by 80% and where applicable use an externally ducted kitchen extractor fan. | |
| Monitor improvements | |
| Mark improvements on damp walls with a pencil line or sticky note and use a moisture meter, such as the Dr. Meter Wood Moisture Meter 2 in 1 Pin & Pinless Multifunctional Water Detector £23.99 or similar damp meter, to log and monitor reduction to dampness in walls. By doing so, you will gain early confidence in these recommendations. Use devices like the ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer to monitor relative humidity and temperature near walls or ceilings, look to keep the dew point at or below the external temperature. The dew point is shown on the app (if not use https://mouldpoint.co.uk to calculate the dew point from humidity and temperature readings). | |
| Remedial actions – estimate of costs | £635 |
Actions if all else fails | |
|---|---|
| Consider installing a kitchen extractor | |
| Ideally, kitchens should feature a quiet, user-friendly extractor fan strategically placed right above or adjacent to boiling pots and pans, ensuring vapour is efficiently expelled outdoors. Unfortunately, some installers overlook the necessity of outdoor ducting, effectively nullifying the fan’s purpose, or they opt for lengthy, flexible ducting that’s susceptible to damage and hampers airflow with its ridges and bends. To maximize the likelihood of its use, the fan’s noise level and ease of operation are crucial factors. A fan that operates quietly and automatically is more likely to be used consistently, enhancing kitchen ventilation and comfort. | £400 |
| Optimal actions – estimate of costs | £400 |
I conclude that there was no evidence of rising damp, which comes from groundwater in contact with walls. The risk of groundwater is very low. There were hygroscopic salts, many signs of excess humidity causing condensation and mould, and residual damp from previously treated drain and penetrating damp to the front.
hygroscopic salts come from historic burning of coal, removing the chimney would have released these salts. Dampness on this wall contrast to damp base of the wall by the blocked drain, now fixed. There is also mould and poor ventilation, both above floor and sub-floor.
. By taking a root cause approach, rather than a focus on blocking the symptoms of damp the savings are likely to be around £5,000. This contrasts with typical damp proofing contractor recommendations such as chemical treatment for rising damp and untargeted ventilation, such as PIV systems.
Flood risk: No risk See Flood Risk (note most flood risk is not from groundwater).
Sub-soil rocks: Rocks with essentially no groundwater See British Geological Survey.
Therefore risk of Rising Damp: remote possibility, see explanation by Dr Robyn Pender of Historic England.
I confirm that I inspected the property on 240129SH0800. I conclude that there was no evidence of rising damp, which comes from groundwater in contact with walls. the risk of groundwater is very low. there were hygroscopic salts, many signs of excess humidity causing condensation and mould, and residual damp from previously tre. All buildings can be exposed to unvented vapour and external dampness to some degree. You will mitigate the risk of damp if you follow all our recommendations. This report is intended to be read in full including supplementary links in this report. Observations and opinions must not be taken in isolation. Given the right weather conditions almost any house can be affected by rain. Like any building, you need to be aware of the risks of damp arising in the future and should plan a programme of monitoring, prevention and maintenance accordingly. Damp Surveys Ltd reports are designed to provide you with an informed, independent expert opinion as to the cause of dampness in the property, together with any recommendations for further investigation or remedial work. We do not warrant any findings in this report unless we enter into a separate warranty agreement with you.
The survey was conducted during daylight hours. Damp will be more noticeable at night and when the weather is colder and more humid. Gutters are more likely to fail when full of leaves and during periods of prolonged rain and adverse wind. We make best endeavours but cannot guarantee being able to identify all forms of damp, rot and insect infestation affecting the property.
We carried out a careful and thorough inspection of as much of the property as was accessible. However, when a full inspection is not possible, we make a professional judgement regarding the likelihood of a defect being present. In certain circumstances, this may lead to a recommendation for further action to open up an area for additional investigation. We were unable to inspect the entire roof, all the guttering, and some of the drains. Similarly, inspection of woodwork or other parts of the structure that were covered, unexposed, poorly lit or inaccessible such as in the loft, cellar, or sub-floor void was not possible, and therefore we are unable to assert that such parts of the property are free from defect. There were no obvious signs of damp resulting from these limitations
Negligence claims must be made within 90 days of the damp survey site visit. Clients must make best endeavours to monitor humidity and temperature on a damp wall and the closest source of humidity, by purchasing and placing two data loggers for example the Smart Hygrometer measuring humidity on the wall and nearest source of vapour, before and after following our recommendations. These data loggers have sufficient memory capacity to store 90 days of data.
This report is for the sole use of the client (named on the invoice, but omitted here for anonymity) for whom the survey was undertaken and can only be relied upon for 90 days from the survey date. Unless expressly stated otherwise in this report, nothing in this report confers or is intended to confer any rights on any third party pursuant to the Contracts (Rights of Third Parties) Act 1999.
Simon Hichens
Site visit 240129SH0800
Simon Hichens BSc Chemistry RICS Qualified Expert Witness (Chartered Surveyors)
PCA Certificated Surveyor of Dampness & Timber in Buildings (Property Care Association)
Damp Surveys Ltd, 119 Longton Ave London SE26 6RF Reg. 10977488 (England & Wales)
Founder of damp.aï & Member of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB)
Our damp surveys are designed to provide a holistic diagnosis that identifies and deals with causes rather than a focus on symptoms. Symptoms will disappear over time, once damp is stopped at source. We look for risks of dampness, but unless moisture is present, we can’t guarantee to identify all risks of future moisture. Our reports:
- identify root cause(s) of major unwanted dampness within the property,
- identify major symptoms of unwanted dampness,
- identify major structural damage caused by dampness,
- recommend actions and estimated costs to stop damp at source and mitigate its effects,
- recognise that treating damp is often a staged approach, treating obvious causes first.
Understanding damp
For survey purposes, damp is defined as unwanted water. Water brings life. We need it. Unfortunately, fungus and insects also thrive in water. While a damp wall can cause decorative spoiling, it is not moisture, but the life it brings that causes the greatest concern in the home environment. FACT: vapour causes 85% of residential damp problems.
Independence and Methodology
Our only income is through damp survey fees. We are independent of contractors and never profit from remedial work. We do not receive or pay any fees or other inducements. Our motivation is peace of mind and practical, durable solutions. We use an array of equipment to identify the root cause of damp within walls. Our damp surveys follow guidance from RICS, Historic England and PCA joint position statement and support RICS’s highest standard, level 3 “Home Survey Standard” (HSS).
During the survey we assess likelihood of rising damp*, mainswater leak, penetrating damp, condensation, timber rot and woodworm. We profile the damp patches and consider the likely sources of dampness and test ventilation against building regulations requirements. We consider changes to the property and factors just before the first sighting of damp.
- Rising damp concern: A damp proofing contractor claimed your property had rising damp.
- Damp treatment: Despite the low risk of rising damp, there has been an attempt at chemical treatment against rising damp. Rising damp treatment is normally a sign of insufficient ventilation. The walls have been drilled into by about 200mm and injected with damp proofing chemicals. In theory the chemicals are absorbed into the brick pores reducing the bricks ability to absorb moisture. Walls are replaced with damp proofers slurry. This can cause problems with absorption imbalance, resulting in increased condensation on other walls or vapour becoming absorbed and trapped behind the slurry. There was evidence of surface condensation in areas probably not treated with replacement plaster but no evidence of trapped vapour. The solution is through ventilation and humidity control.
- Weather: dry
- Property: Victorian ground floor flat
- Background: The owners bought in 2022, after damp proofing treatment in 2019. Dampness continued to the front and rear. The front render was removed and the rear drain unblocked.
- Changes: conversion into flats, chimney removal, damp proofing treatment, blocked drain, sub-floor vent has been blocked, central heating, double glazing with no or insufficient trickle vents and lifestyle changes including more frequent showers and clothes washing, including greater occupancy during the Covid pandemic.
- Occupancy: owner occupied, vacant since September
- Mould & notes: mould to rear, calcium sulphate salts around sockets
- Primary damp concern: damp to rear bedroom
- Compounding: blocked drain
- Airbricks: The rear sub-floor air bricks are inadequate.
- Sub-floor humidity: We could not measure the relative humidity of the sub-floor void.
- Tenure: ground floor flat
- Attachment: a terraced
- Build: Victorian
- Walls: solid wall made of two brick widths (225mm)
- Exterior comment: There were no major concerns seen externally that would account for internal issues.
- Penetrating damp assessment: The exterior appeared to be OK from a damp perspective. There are no obvious signs of significant ongoing penetrating damp, there could be residual damp.
- Drains: The drains seem to function correctly, but had been blocked.
- Leak signs: No suspicion of a mains water leak
- Leak assessment: There are no obvious signs of a significant mains or wastewater leak.
- Floor: The suspended timber floor did not feel damaged.
- Loft: There was no loft.
- Timber assessment: There is a risk of rot in the sub-floor void, it was checked in 2019, and appeared to be OK then.
- Last dry: It is difficult to know when dampness started, but given the damp proofing treatment for non-existent rising damp, it is likely to be have been years.
- Ventilation assessment: The bathroom extractor fan is insufficient. There is no externally duct to the kitchen extractor fan.
W.H.O. indoor air quality guidelines
“Management of moisture requires proper control of temperature and ventilation to avoid excess humidity, condensation on surfaces and excess moisture in materials. Ventilation should be distributed effectively throughout spaces, and stagnant air zones should be avoided.”
FACT: Houses contain 30 – 40 litres of water as vapour typically. Each day, each occupant adds on average about 1.5 litres as follows:
- Each shower results in 1/2L condensing (each additional shower in a series won’t add as much as the first, so long as the door is kept closed)
- Vapour from drying clothes releases about ½ litre per day if dried indoors
- Respiration releases about ¾ litre per day (of which ¼ l at night)
- Cooking produces about ¼ litre per day per person
- Unvented vapour can cause condensation, mould and allergenic dust mites. The simple rule for keeping your property dry and mould free is;
- Vent out as much vapour as produced, each and every day!
- Central heating and double-glazing reduce background ventilation. To overcome this you should use mechanical extractors. Where properties are rented, consider using monitoring devices (such as a Govee WIFI hygrometer) and if necessary, install continuous flow extractors, but beware there can be a thermal cost caused by continuous heat lost.
FACTS about Condensation and Mould
- FACT: warm air holds more water vapour than cold air. The warmer it is, the more air’s capacity to hold water vapour. Conversely the colder it is, the less capacity, until air cannot hold any more vapour. We call that the dew point or 100%RH. As soon air reaches capacity, condensation will form on the coldest surfaces.
- FACT: Mould and dust mites
- FACT: Mould only grows when air is humid for long periods. In the occupied home environment, it is 6 hours over 85% RH. For properties that are unoccupied for long periods, it is 75% RH for many days of consistent and high humidity. Avoid allowing the surface relative humidity of cold walls to exceed 85% RH by ventilating, dehumidifying, insulating, and ensuring airflow, particularly in cold corners, base of walls and ceilings, eaves, and cold window and door reveals.
- FACT: Dust mites are microscopic insects that can cause allergies. They grow in similar conditions to mould. So ventilate more to avoid allergies.
- FACT: Health concerns: There are no health and safety issues from damp noted. It is in the occupier’s interests to keep a property properly ventilated or dehumidified and temperatures above the dew and mould points throughout the property, thereby reducing the health risk associated with dust mites, bacteria, protozoans, as well as decorative spoiling caused by mould.
TIPS To Stay Condensation and Mould Free
- TIP: Reduce the production of vapour at source:
- TIP: Keep bathroom extractor fans running, or window open for at least 30 minutes.
- TIP: Keep bathroom doors closed at all times, and bathroom windows open safely.
- TIP: When filling the bath, run the cold water first then add the hot.
- TIP: Dry clothes outside, in a dryer, in a closed room with a dehumidifier or window open, never on radiators or heated rail without a door closed and a means of removing the vapour.
- TIP: Cook with tops on pots and pans, avoiding excessive boiling.
- TIP: Keep the kitchen door closed and extractor fan on where possible.
- TIP:Mechanical vents are best, but if you only have passive vents, such as a whole in the wall or chimney, then vents open with space for air to move, insulate where possible.
- TIP: Keep trickle vents open or alternatively, open windows on safety locks.
- TIP: Stop mould forming:
* Maintain external wall temperatures above 12°C, with low background heating.
* Declutter leaving space for warm air to circulate around cold surfaces.
* Where possible, avoid placing wardrobes and furniture against external walls.
* Avoid overfilling wardrobes and cupboards as it restricts air circulation.
* Use dehumidifiers or small wardrobe dehumidifying bags and replace regularly.
* Wipe mould and condensation off walls and clothes as soon as it appears. - TIP: Monitor relative humidity
* We recommend monitoring temperature and relative humidity with a data logger to see what is happening.
