Background
While replastering, evidence of damp was found on the bricks of a ground-floor wall shared with a neighbor in a terraced house. No bathroom is directly above that wall, no radiator is nearby, and no other obvious potential sources of damp are present. The neighbor was consulted but reported no signs of damp on their side. A damp expert identified the problem as rising damp and injected damp-proofing cream around a year ago. Since then, the wall was replastered and painted, but now the paint is flaking off in two small spots, suggesting the problem has not been resolved.
Data loggers – see damp.ai/detect
The surface relative humidity is mainly below 80%RH, and since my survey below 60%RH, typically too low to cause condensation and rising damp like symptoms directly onto the wall – but there could be indirect condensation. This is unsurprising because the two damp walls are party walls and therefore not subject to external low temperature.
The dark blue line, the dew point represents both the amount of vapour expressed as a temperature, and the temperature at which condensation forms. If, as I suspect the rear toilet becomes cold, such as cold water pipes and other pipes connected to the outside, there is a significant risk of condensation. The membrane starts around the perimeter of this room, suggesting that the toilet is the entry point for the condensation between the linoleum and damp proof membrane.
Conclusion from data loggers
I believe that condensation is taking place indirectly, probably in the toilet, leading to moisture entry between the two membranes. There are essentially two root causes: the damp-proof membrane, that should be removed, and excess vapour, that should be extracted, especially from the kitchen.
Evidence & Illustrations
When moisture becomes trapped between two impermeable layers—in this case, the linoleum glued to the solid screed floor and the damp-proof membrane laid over it—water is prevented from vertical escape and causing horizontal spread along the interface. The membrane starts around the perimeter of the toilet, suggesting that water, probably in the form of condensation, enters from this room between the linoleum and the membrane. Additionally, inadequate vapour extraction on the ground floor, particularly from the kitchen, increases humidity and condensation. Therefore, the root causes are the impermeable damp-proof membrane trapping moisture and insufficient ventilation. Removing the membrane and improving vapour extraction in these areas should resolve the dampness issue.
Damp-proofing treatment
The previous damp-proofing treatment using absorption reducing chemicals injected into the wall, was insufficient to stop the rise of water. Water from any source will rise upwards, like kitchen roll in a pool of water. By definition, the water in rising damp only comes from groundwater. Rising damp treatment can reduce the absorption of water from any source, but is rarely sufficient to overcome pools of water and concentrated vapour directed at a wall.
Robot floor cleaner
There was also mould and a leak stain under the timber. I believe these come from localised spillage, either from the robot floor cleaner, or from wet bikes. Either way, and given dampness along the other wall, I don’t believe this moisture was a significant contributory factor, unless it was causing water to enter between the two impermeable layers.
To keep the property dry | |
|---|---|
| Remove the damp-proof membrane | |
| As part of the floor replacement, replace the damp proof membrane with an underlay that is vapour permeable and ideally provides some insulation, such as wood fibre. When lifting the floor check for cracks. It is extremely unlikely, but it is theoretically it is possible that water from a leaking drain is causing moisture to rise through the floor, it would cause the same damp symptoms. | |
| Target vapour from cooking | |
| Cook with tops on pots and pans, turn the heat down so that is still simmers, to reduce vapour production by 80%. | |
| Target vapour from bathroom | |
| Keep the bathroom door closed with the fan running until the humidity from the shower has subsided – typically at least 30 mins after the last shower. | |
| Target vapour from clothes drying | |
| Use a tumble dryer (like a heat pump), dry in a vented room with the door closed (possibly a bathroom with the extractor running or window open), or use a powerful dehumidifier. Don’t dry clothes in an unventilated room. | |
| Maintain airflow close to cold walls | |
| Keep objects away from walls where condensation or mould has built up. Consider insulating cold internal surfaces, for example, with floor insulation from B&Q or Wallrock Thermal Liner (ensure to use Wallrock Thermal Liner Adhesive). | |
| Use a dehumidifier | |
| Maintain relative humidity, especially at night when it’s cold outside, with a dehumidifier such as PureMate 20L/Day Portable & Compact Dehumidifier with 6.5 Litre (£179.99 Refrigerant), Duux Bora Smart Dehumidifier (DXDH02UK £300 Refrigerant) or Meaco DD8L Zambezi (£260 Desiccant – best for colder environments) – Which! Best buys. There are plenty of alternatives available. I choose a dehumidifier based on daily and tank capacity, low noise, whether it has a pipe out, and ease of programmable functions over other considerations such as weight and aesthetics. The technology is old and easy to manufacture. So if these brands are not available, you are sure to find another alternative. Evaluate based on daily capacity (20L minimum) and whether it has a continuous pipe out (use this to drip into a sink when away in winter). | £180 |
| Follow Dew’s Law | |
| Follow Dew’s Law to effectively manage internal vapour, it is crucial to maintain the internal vapour levels, as measured by the dew point in degrees Centigrade, below the external temperature. This can be achieved through adequate ventilation and the use of dehumidifiers. Monitor the internal Dew Point with a reliable device, such as the Habotest Hygrometer or Dew Point Meter HT607, or utilise the sensorblue app paired with the ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer. These tools help in accurately gauging humidity levels, ensuring they remain optimal. For more detailed information on detecting and managing damp issues, please visit https://damp.ai/detect. | |
| Remedial actions – estimate of costs | £180 |
Actions if all else fails | |
|---|---|
| Consider installing a kitchen extractor | |
| Ideally, kitchens should feature a quiet, user-friendly extractor fan strategically placed right above or adjacent to boiling pots and pans, ensuring vapour is efficiently expelled outdoors. Unfortunately, some installers overlook the necessity of outdoor ducting, effectively nullifying the fan’s purpose, or they opt for lengthy, flexible ducting that’s susceptible to damage and hampers airflow with its ridges and bends. To maximize the likelihood of its use, the fan’s noise level and ease of operation are crucial factors. A fan that operates quietly and automatically is more likely to be used consistently, enhancing kitchen ventilation and comfort. | £800 |
| Optimal actions – estimate of costs | £800 |
I conclude that water, probably in the vapour phase, is passing between the impermeable damp-proof membrane and the impermeable lino covered solid floor.
Moisture becomes trapped between two impermeable layers—the linoleum glued to the solid screed floor and the damp-proof membrane laid over it—preventing vertical escape and causing horizontal spread along their interface. The membrane starts around the perimeter of the toilet, suggesting that condensation from this room enters between the linoleum and the membrane at that point. Additionally, inadequate vapour extraction on the ground floor, particularly from the kitchen, increases humidity and condensation. Therefore, the root causes are the impermeable damp-proof membrane trapping moisture and insufficient ventilation. Removing the membrane and improving vapour extraction in these areas should resolve the dampness issue.
. By taking a root cause approach, rather than a focus on blocking the symptoms of damp the savings are likely to be around £5,000. This contrasts with typical damp proofing contractor recommendations such as chemical treatment for rising damp and untargeted ventilation, such as PIV systems.
Flood risk: Low risk See Flood Risk (note most flood risk is not from groundwater).
Sub-soil rocks: Rocks with essentially no groundwater See British Geological Survey.
Therefore risk of Rising Damp: remote possibility, see explanation by Dr Robyn Pender of Historic England.
I confirm that I inspected the property on 240911SH1030. I conclude that water, probably in the vapour phase, is passing between the impermeable damp-proof membrane and the impermeable lino covered solid floor.. All buildings can be exposed to unvented vapour and external dampness to some degree. You will mitigate the risk of damp if you follow all our recommendations. This report is intended to be read in full including supplementary links in this report. Observations and opinions must not be taken in isolation. Given the right weather conditions almost any house can be affected by rain. Like any building, you need to be aware of the risks of damp arising in the future and should plan a programme of monitoring, prevention and maintenance accordingly. Damp Surveys Ltd reports are designed to provide you with an informed, independent expert opinion as to the cause of dampness in the property, together with any recommendations for further investigation or remedial work. We do not warrant any findings in this report unless we enter into a separate warranty agreement with you.
The survey was conducted during daylight hours. Damp will be more noticeable at night and when the weather is colder and more humid. Gutters are more likely to fail when full of leaves and during periods of prolonged rain and adverse wind. We make best endeavours but cannot guarantee being able to identify all forms of damp, rot and insect infestation affecting the property.
We carried out a careful and thorough inspection of as much of the property as was accessible. However, when a full inspection is not possible, we make a professional judgement regarding the likelihood of a defect being present. In certain circumstances, this may lead to a recommendation for further action to open up an area for additional investigation. We were unable to inspect the entire roof, all the guttering, and some of the drains. Similarly, inspection of woodwork or other parts of the structure that were covered, unexposed, poorly lit or inaccessible such as in the loft, cellar, or sub-floor void was not possible, and therefore we are unable to assert that such parts of the property are free from defect. There were no obvious signs of damp resulting from these limitations
Negligence claims must be made within 90 days of the damp survey site visit. Clients must make best endeavours to monitor humidity and temperature on a damp wall and the closest source of humidity, by purchasing and placing two data loggers for example the Smart Hygrometer measuring humidity on the wall and nearest source of vapour, before and after following our recommendations. These data loggers have sufficient memory capacity to store 90 days of data.
This report is for the sole use of the client (named on the invoice, but omitted here for anonymity) for whom the survey was undertaken and can only be relied upon for 90 days from the survey date. Unless expressly stated otherwise in this report, nothing in this report confers or is intended to confer any rights on any third party pursuant to the Contracts (Rights of Third Parties) Act 1999.
Simon Hichens
Site visit 240911SH1030
Simon Hichens BSc Chemistry RICS Qualified Expert Witness (Chartered Surveyors)
PCA Certificated Surveyor of Dampness & Timber in Buildings (Property Care Association)
Damp Surveys Ltd, 119 Longton Ave London SE26 6RF Reg. 10977488 (England & Wales)
Founder of damp.aï & Member of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB)
Our damp surveys are designed to provide a holistic diagnosis that identifies and deals with causes rather than a focus on symptoms. Symptoms will disappear over time, once damp is stopped at source. We look for risks of dampness, but unless moisture is present, we can’t guarantee to identify all risks of future moisture. Our reports:
- identify root cause(s) of major unwanted dampness within the property,
- identify major symptoms of unwanted dampness,
- identify major structural damage caused by dampness,
- recommend actions and estimated costs to stop damp at source and mitigate its effects,
- recognise that treating damp is often a staged approach, treating obvious causes first.
Understanding damp
For survey purposes, damp is defined as unwanted water. Water brings life. We need it. Unfortunately, fungus and insects also thrive in water. While a damp wall can cause decorative spoiling, it is not moisture, but the life it brings that causes the greatest concern in the home environment. FACT: vapour causes 85% of residential damp problems.
Independence and Methodology
Our only income is through damp survey fees. We are independent of contractors and never profit from remedial work. We do not receive or pay any fees or other inducements. Our motivation is peace of mind and practical, durable solutions. We use an array of equipment to identify the root cause of damp within walls. Our damp surveys follow guidance from RICS, Historic England and PCA joint position statement and support RICS’s highest standard, level 3 “Home Survey Standard” (HSS).
During the survey we assess likelihood of rising damp*, mainswater leak, penetrating damp, condensation, timber rot and woodworm. We profile the damp patches and consider the likely sources of dampness and test ventilation against building regulations requirements. We consider changes to the property and factors just before the first sighting of damp.
- Rising damp concern: You were concern you might have rising damp.
- Damp treatment: Despite the low risk of rising damp, there has been an attempt at chemical treatment against rising damp. Rising damp treatment is normally a sign of insufficient ventilation. The walls have been drilled into by about 200mm and injected with damp proofing chemicals. In theory the chemicals are absorbed into the brick pores reducing the bricks ability to absorb moisture. Walls are replaced with damp proofers slurry. This can cause problems with absorption imbalance, resulting in increased condensation on other walls or vapour becoming absorbed and trapped behind the slurry. There was evidence of surface condensation in areas probably not treated with replacement plaster but no evidence of trapped vapour. The solution is through ventilation and humidity control.
“Management of moisture requires proper control of temperature and ventilation to avoid excess humidity, condensation on surfaces and excess moisture in materials. Ventilation should be distributed effectively throughout spaces, and stagnant air zones should be avoided.”
FACT: Houses contain 30 – 40 litres of water as vapour typically. Each day, each occupant adds on average about 1.5 litres as follows:
- Each shower results in 1/2L condensing (each additional shower in a series won’t add as much as the first, so long as the door is kept closed)
- Vapour from drying clothes releases about ½ litre per day if dried indoors
- Respiration releases about ¾ litre per day (of which ¼ l at night)
- Cooking produces about ¼ litre per day per person
- Unvented vapour can cause condensation, mould and allergenic dust mites. The simple rule for keeping your property dry and mould free is;
- Vent out as much vapour as produced, each and every day!
- Central heating and double-glazing reduce background ventilation. To overcome this you should use mechanical extractors. Where properties are rented, consider using monitoring devices (such as a Govee WIFI hygrometer) and if necessary, install continuous flow extractors, but beware there can be a thermal cost caused by continuous heat lost.
FACTS about Condensation and Mould
- FACT: warm air holds more water vapour than cold air. The warmer it is, the more air’s capacity to hold water vapour. Conversely the colder it is, the less capacity, until air cannot hold any more vapour. We call that the dew point or 100%RH. As soon air reaches capacity, condensation will form on the coldest surfaces.
- FACT: Mould and dust mites
- FACT: Mould only grows when air is humid for long periods. In the occupied home environment, it is 6 hours over 85% RH. For properties that are unoccupied for long periods, it is 75% RH for many days of consistent and high humidity. Avoid allowing the surface relative humidity of cold walls to exceed 85% RH by ventilating, dehumidifying, insulating, and ensuring airflow, particularly in cold corners, base of walls and ceilings, eaves, and cold window and door reveals.
- FACT: Dust mites are microscopic insects that can cause allergies. They grow in similar conditions to mould. So ventilate more to avoid allergies.
- FACT: Health concerns: There are no health and safety issues from damp noted. It is in the occupier’s interests to keep a property properly ventilated or dehumidified and temperatures above the dew and mould points throughout the property, thereby reducing the health risk associated with dust mites, bacteria, protozoans, as well as decorative spoiling caused by mould.
TIPS To Stay Condensation and Mould Free
- TIP: Reduce the production of vapour at source:
- TIP: Keep bathroom extractor fans running, or window open for at least 30 minutes.
- TIP: Keep bathroom doors closed at all times, and bathroom windows open safely.
- TIP: When filling the bath, run the cold water first then add the hot.
- TIP: Dry clothes outside, in a dryer, in a closed room with a dehumidifier or window open, never on radiators or heated rail without a door closed and a means of removing the vapour.
- TIP: Cook with tops on pots and pans, avoiding excessive boiling.
- TIP: Keep the kitchen door closed and extractor fan on where possible.
- TIP:Mechanical vents are best, but if you only have passive vents, such as a whole in the wall or chimney, then vents open with space for air to move, insulate where possible.
- TIP: Keep trickle vents open or alternatively, open windows on safety locks.
- TIP: Stop mould forming:
* Maintain external wall temperatures above 12°C, with low background heating.
* Declutter leaving space for warm air to circulate around cold surfaces.
* Where possible, avoid placing wardrobes and furniture against external walls.
* Avoid overfilling wardrobes and cupboards as it restricts air circulation.
* Use dehumidifiers or small wardrobe dehumidifying bags and replace regularly.
* Wipe mould and condensation off walls and clothes as soon as it appears. - TIP: Monitor relative humidity
* We recommend monitoring temperature and relative humidity with a data logger to see what is happening.
What does the damp report say are the main causes of damp and main actions to stop damp?
¿Qué dice el informe de humedad sobre las principales causas de la humedad y las principales acciones para detenerla?
潮湿报告说什么是潮湿的主要原因和防止潮湿的主要措施？
नमी की रिपोर्ट के अनुसार नमी के मुख्य कारण और नमी को रोकने के लिए मुख्य कार्य क्या हैं?
Que dit le rapport sur l’humidité concernant les principales causes de l’humidité et les principales actions pour l’arrêter?
Was sagt der Feuchtigkeitsbericht über die Hauptursachen von Feuchtigkeit und die Hauptmaßnahmen zur Bekämpfung von Feuchtigkeit?
Что говорится в отчете о влажности о основных причинах влажности и основных действиях по ее устранению?
Cosa dice il rapporto sull’umidità riguardo le principali cause dell’umidità e le principali azioni per fermarla?