Background
Concerns were raised about a damp patch 💧 on the ground floor interior wall of the side return, which has appears to creep upwards ⬆️ over time , causing discolouration and damage to paintwork 🎨. The external concrete render on the ground surface of the side return was changed several years ago during the construction of a neighbouring extension. This render appears to retain moisture, failing to dry out properly, potentially contributing to the damp issue. A ventilation deficiency has also been suggested as a possible factor.
Data loggers – see damp.ai/detect

The 💙 Blue Line (Dew Point) represents the amount of vapour in the air. To prevent condensation, it should stay below the 🩷 Pink Line (Outdoor Temperature), using targeted ventilation and dehumidification – this is known s Dew’s Law.
The 🩶 Grey Line (Dew Point Differential), located at the base of the graph, shows the difference in vapour levels between two spaces where the loggers were sited. When the grey line is above 0°C, it indicates more vapour in the room with the first logger (in this case, the living room) compared to the other (the utility room). While there are moments when vapour originates from the utility room, most of the time the living room has higher humidity levels. This is likely due to activities such as respiration or cooking vapours drifting from the kitchen.
Conclusion from data loggers
The primary issue is excess vapour from insufficient ventilation, likely originating from the kitchen. This is compounded by clothes drying in the utility room and general vapour from respiration. The situation is further exacerbated by heat loss near the damp wall.
Evidence & Illustrations

1, The base of a wall, especially above a cold sub-floor void, and next to a chimney is poorly insulated and therefore at risk of condensation. Dampness further reduces the insulation, increasing heat loss.
2, The missing skirting board would have both insulated the base of the wall from heat loss and would have cover up any condensation,
3, Timber skirting also marginally draws out condensation from the wall, until the timber itself becomes saturated.
4, I suspect, that something was sitting in front of this section of wall before the survey, perhaps a toy. Vapour moves through diffusion, like smoke, whereas heat in homes moves mainly through air currents.
The dampness may appear to creep upwards over time as moisture at the base of a wall causes heat loss, which increases the risk of condensation. This condensation accumulates, much like sand in an hourglass. This phenomenon is often mistaken for rising damp, though it is more accurately described as “piling-up damp.” While this term might be less memorable and less dramatic, it better reflects the true process—though it wouldn’t make for a catchy sitcom title or instil the same fear factor.

Other matters


The first is the misdiagnosis of hygroscopic salts, which absorb moisture from the air and can cause persistent, colourless damp patches even after leaks are repaired. This is not applicable in this case.
The second, more relevant issue, is interstitial condensation. This occurs when warm vapour from within the property rises into the roof void and condenses on cold surfaces, such as tiles. Unlike neighbouring properties of a similar design, your rear roof appears to lack adequate ventilation, significantly increasing the risk of interstitial condensation. If air can pass through tiles because there is no sarking material, or there a vapour permeable material, then additional ventilation is not required.
Sources of this vapour include vapour from below, such as from the inadequately ventilated bathroom and moisture evaporating from rain-soaked external walls, party walls, and the chimney breast. Without sufficient roof ventilation, this trapped vapour condenses, causing dampness in areas like the top of the chimney breast.

To keep the property dry | |
|---|---|
| Cooking Tips | |
| Always cook with tops on pots and pans to reduce vapour emission by 80% and or use an externally ducted kitchen extractor fan – see below. | |
| Target vapour from bathroom | |
| TIP: Keep the bathroom door closed with the fan running or window open until the humidity from the shower has subsided – typically at least 30 mins after the last shower. | |
| Target vapour from clothes drying | |
| Use a tumble dryer (like a heat pump), dry in a vented room with the door closed (possibly a bathroom with the extractor running or window open), or use a powerful dehumidifier. Don’t dry clothes in an unventilated room. | |
| Monitor internal vapour | |
| Use devices like the ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer to monitor relative humidity and temperature near walls or ceilings, look to keep the dew point at or below the external temperature, The dew point is shown on the app (if not use https://mouldpoint.co.uk to calculate the dew point from humidity and temperature readings). Increase ventilation or dehumidification as required. Note excess ventilation results in lost energy. The cold air replacing the warm air will have a dew point that is below the outside temperature. When it is raining, the dew point will be higher, so you may need more ventilation to achieve the same reduction in dew point. In winter, there is no risk in condensation inside, if the internal dew point is below the external temperature. | |
| Use fan to expedite drying | |
| Direct a fan onto the damp patch to speed up the drying process. | £50 |
| Use a dehumidifier | |
| Maintain relative humidity, especially at night when it’s cold outside, with a dehumidifier such as: PureMate 20L/Day Portable & Compact Dehumidifier with a 6.5-litre tank (£179.99, refrigerant) Duux Bora Smart Dehumidifier (DXDH02UK, £300, refrigerant) Meaco DD8L Zambezi (£260, desiccant, best for colder environments) — Which! Best buys There are plenty of alternatives available. I choose a dehumidifier based on daily capacity, tank size, low noise, continuous drainage (pipe out), and ease of programmable functions over other considerations such as weight and aesthetics. The technology is well-established and functions similarly to fridges, with a comparable fire risk profile. If these brands are unavailable, you can confidently select another alternative. When evaluating, prioritise a minimum daily capacity of 20L and continuous drainage capability (use this to drip into a sink when away in winter). Tip: Use a dehumidifier whenever leaving a property vacant. Set it to 70%RH and drip into a sink—especially in winter. This method is more efficient than other humidity management methods, including ventilation. | £180 |
| Monitor dampness in walls | |
| Mark improvements on damp walls with a pencil line or sticky note and use a moisture meter, such as the Dr. Meter Wood Moisture Meter 2 in 1 Pin & Pinless Multifunctional Water Detector £23.99 or similar damp meter. Log and monitor the reduction in dampness to gain early confidence in these recommendations. | £23 |
| Roof tile repairs | |
| While this is not a roofing survey or report, I did see what appears to be some cracked slate tiles above the damp patch by the chimney, these should ideally be replaced. | £1,000 |
| Remedial actions – estimate of costs | £1,253 |
Actions if all else fails | |
|---|---|
| Duct out kitchen extractor fan | |
| Consider instructing general builder to duct out kitchen extractor fan (hole required to duct outside, which may require freeholder permission). | £500 |
| Consider installing timber skirting | |
| Timber skirting would marginally reduce the risk of condensation to the base of the wall, as well as keeping it clear so that warm air can circulate. | £100 |
| Optimal actions – estimate of costs | £700 |
I conclude that the primary cause of internal dampness is excess vapour from the kitchen, utility room, and bathroom extractor fans that were switched off. The damp in the top floor bedroom is most likely to be caused by interstitial condensation, but could be from Penetrating damp.
The dampness may appear to creep upwards over time as moisture at the base of a wall causes heat loss, which increases the risk of condensation. This condensation accumulates, much like sand in an hourglass. This phenomenon is often mistaken for rising damp, though it is more accurately described as “piling-up damp.” While this term might be less memorable and less dramatic, it better reflects the true process—though it wouldn’t make for a catchy sitcom title or instill the same fear factor.
I turned on and cleared the bathroom extractor fans so that they are now working reasonably well – better anyway.. By taking a root cause approach, rather than a focus on blocking the symptoms of damp the savings are likely to be around £10,000. This contrasts with typical damp proofing contractor recommendations such as chemical treatment for rising damp and untargeted ventilation, such as PIV systems.
Flood risk: No risk See Flood Risk (note most flood risk is not from groundwater).
Sub-soil rocks: Rocks with essentially no groundwater See British Geological Survey.
Therefore risk of Rising Damp: remote possibility, see explanation by Dr Robyn Pender of Historic England.
I confirm that I inspected the property on . I conclude that the primary cause of internal dampness is excess vapour from the kitchen, utility room, and bathroom extractor fans that were switched off. the damp in the top floor bedroom is most likely to be caused by interstitial condensation, but could be from penetr. All buildings can be exposed to unvented vapour and external dampness to some degree. You will mitigate the risk of damp if you follow all our recommendations. This report is intended to be read in full including supplementary links in this report. Observations and opinions must not be taken in isolation. Given the right weather conditions almost any house can be affected by rain. Like any building, you need to be aware of the risks of damp arising in the future and should plan a programme of monitoring, prevention and maintenance accordingly. Damp Surveys Ltd reports are designed to provide you with an informed, independent expert opinion as to the cause of dampness in the property, together with any recommendations for further investigation or remedial work. We do not warrant any findings in this report unless we enter into a separate warranty agreement with you.
The survey was conducted during daylight hours. Damp will be more noticeable at night and when the weather is colder and more humid. Gutters are more likely to fail when full of leaves and during periods of prolonged rain and adverse wind. We make best endeavours but cannot guarantee being able to identify all forms of damp, rot and insect infestation affecting the property.
We carried out a careful and thorough inspection of as much of the property as was accessible. However, when a full inspection is not possible, we make a professional judgement regarding the likelihood of a defect being present. In certain circumstances, this may lead to a recommendation for further action to open up an area for additional investigation. We were unable to inspect the entire roof, all the guttering, and some of the drains. Similarly, inspection of woodwork or other parts of the structure that were covered, unexposed, poorly lit or inaccessible such as in the loft, cellar, or sub-floor void was not possible, and therefore we are unable to assert that such parts of the property are free from defect. There were no obvious signs of damp resulting from these limitations
Negligence claims must be made within 90 days of the damp survey site visit. Clients must make best endeavours to monitor humidity and temperature on a damp wall and the closest source of humidity, by purchasing and placing two data loggers for example the Smart Hygrometer measuring humidity on the wall and nearest source of vapour, before and after following our recommendations. These data loggers have sufficient memory capacity to store 90 days of data.
This report is for the sole use of the client (named on the invoice, but omitted here for anonymity) for whom the survey was undertaken and can only be relied upon for 90 days from the survey date. Unless expressly stated otherwise in this report, nothing in this report confers or is intended to confer any rights on any third party pursuant to the Contracts (Rights of Third Parties) Act 1999.
Simon Hichens
Site visit
Simon Hichens BSc Chemistry RICS Qualified Expert Witness (Chartered Surveyors)
PCA Certificated Surveyor of Dampness & Timber in Buildings (Property Care Association)
Damp Surveys Ltd, 119 Longton Ave London SE26 6RF Reg. 10977488 (England & Wales)
Founder of damp.aï & Member of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings (SPAB)
Our damp surveys are designed to provide a holistic diagnosis that identifies and deals with causes rather than a focus on symptoms. Symptoms will disappear over time, once damp is stopped at source. We look for risks of dampness, but unless moisture is present, we can’t guarantee to identify all risks of future moisture. Our reports:
- identify root cause(s) of major unwanted dampness within the property,
- identify major symptoms of unwanted dampness,
- identify major structural damage caused by dampness,
- recommend actions and estimated costs to stop damp at source and mitigate its effects,
- recognise that treating damp is often a staged approach, treating obvious causes first.
Understanding damp
For survey purposes, damp is defined as unwanted water. Water brings life. We need it. Unfortunately, fungus and insects also thrive in water. While a damp wall can cause decorative spoiling, it is not moisture, but the life it brings that causes the greatest concern in the home environment. FACT: vapour causes 85% of residential damp problems.
Independence and Methodology
Our only income is through damp survey fees. We are independent of contractors and never profit from remedial work. We do not receive or pay any fees or other inducements. Our motivation is peace of mind and practical, durable solutions. We use an array of equipment to identify the root cause of damp within walls. Our damp surveys follow guidance from RICS, Historic England and PCA joint position statement and support RICS’s highest standard, level 3 “Home Survey Standard” (HSS).
During the survey we assess likelihood of rising damp*, mainswater leak, penetrating damp, condensation, timber rot and woodworm. We profile the damp patches and consider the likely sources of dampness and test ventilation against building regulations requirements. We consider changes to the property and factors just before the first sighting of damp.
“Management of moisture requires proper control of temperature and ventilation to avoid excess humidity, condensation on surfaces and excess moisture in materials. Ventilation should be distributed effectively throughout spaces, and stagnant air zones should be avoided.”
FACT: Houses contain 30 – 40 litres of water as vapour typically. Each day, each occupant adds on average about 1.5 litres as follows:
- Each shower results in 1/2L condensing (each additional shower in a series won’t add as much as the first, so long as the door is kept closed)
- Vapour from drying clothes releases about ½ litre per day if dried indoors
- Respiration releases about ¾ litre per day (of which ¼ l at night)
- Cooking produces about ¼ litre per day per person
- Unvented vapour can cause condensation, mould and allergenic dust mites. The simple rule for keeping your property dry and mould free is;
- Vent out as much vapour as produced, each and every day!
- Central heating and double-glazing reduce background ventilation. To overcome this you should use mechanical extractors. Where properties are rented, consider using monitoring devices (such as a Govee WIFI hygrometer) and if necessary, install continuous flow extractors, but beware there can be a thermal cost caused by continuous heat lost.
FACTS about Condensation and Mould
- FACT: warm air holds more water vapour than cold air. The warmer it is, the more air’s capacity to hold water vapour. Conversely the colder it is, the less capacity, until air cannot hold any more vapour. We call that the dew point or 100%RH. As soon air reaches capacity, condensation will form on the coldest surfaces.
- FACT: Mould and dust mites
- FACT: Mould only grows when air is humid for long periods. In the occupied home environment, it is 6 hours over 85% RH. For properties that are unoccupied for long periods, it is 75% RH for many days of consistent and high humidity. Avoid allowing the surface relative humidity of cold walls to exceed 85% RH by ventilating, dehumidifying, insulating, and ensuring airflow, particularly in cold corners, base of walls and ceilings, eaves, and cold window and door reveals.
- FACT: Dust mites are microscopic insects that can cause allergies. They grow in similar conditions to mould. So ventilate more to avoid allergies.
- FACT: Health concerns: There are no health and safety issues from damp noted. It is in the occupier’s interests to keep a property properly ventilated or dehumidified and temperatures above the dew and mould points throughout the property, thereby reducing the health risk associated with dust mites, bacteria, protozoans, as well as decorative spoiling caused by mould.
TIPS To Stay Condensation and Mould Free
- TIP: Reduce the production of vapour at source:
- TIP: Keep bathroom extractor fans running, or window open for at least 30 minutes.
- TIP: Keep bathroom doors closed at all times, and bathroom windows open safely.
- TIP: When filling the bath, run the cold water first then add the hot.
- TIP: Dry clothes outside, in a dryer, in a closed room with a dehumidifier or window open, never on radiators or heated rail without a door closed and a means of removing the vapour.
- TIP: Cook with tops on pots and pans, avoiding excessive boiling.
- TIP: Keep the kitchen door closed and extractor fan on where possible.
- TIP:Mechanical vents are best, but if you only have passive vents, such as a whole in the wall or chimney, then vents open with space for air to move, insulate where possible.
- TIP: Keep trickle vents open or alternatively, open windows on safety locks.
- TIP: Stop mould forming:
* Maintain external wall temperatures above 12°C, with low background heating.
* Declutter leaving space for warm air to circulate around cold surfaces.
* Where possible, avoid placing wardrobes and furniture against external walls.
* Avoid overfilling wardrobes and cupboards as it restricts air circulation.
* Use dehumidifiers or small wardrobe dehumidifying bags and replace regularly.
* Wipe mould and condensation off walls and clothes as soon as it appears. - TIP: Monitor relative humidity
* We recommend monitoring temperature and relative humidity with a data logger to see what is happening.
Relevant examples of similar damp issues or remediation:
See past damp cases
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What does the damp report say are the main causes of damp and main actions to stop damp?
¿Qué dice el informe de humedad sobre las principales causas de la humedad y las principales acciones para detenerla?
潮湿报告说什么是潮湿的主要原因和防止潮湿的主要措施?
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