Background
A persistent mould problem was reported in a London property, notably near a bedroom window, where damp plaster and bubbling paintwork were observed. 🏠 The client expressed concern over white salts appearing on the surface, suggesting possible efflorescence due to moisture ingress. 💧 Photos provided show significant plaster damage in several areas, with mould growth that might be exacerbated by inadequate ventilation, despite the presence of a Positive Input Ventilation (PIV) fan. 💨
Data loggers – see damp.ai/detect

The 💚 Green Line (Surface Relative Humidity) represents the relative humidity on the damp and mouldy wall in the front bedroom. During the monitoring period, it remains high, often exceeding 85% RH for extended durations, creating conditions conducive to mould growth. It occasionally reaches 100% RH, indicating the formation of condensation on the wall surface.
The 💙 Blue Line (Dew Point) reflects the amount of vapour in the air. To prevent condensationand mould growth, it should stay below the 🩷 Pink Line (External Temperature), adhering to Dew’s Law. This can be achieved by improving ventilation and reducing humidity levels in the bedroom.
The 🩶 Grey Line (Dew Point Differential), located at the base of the graph, shows the difference in vapour levels between the front bedroom and the bathroom. When the grey line is above 0°C, it indicates more vapour is coming from the bedroom than the bathroom, suggesting insufficient vapour control in the bedroom. When it is below 0°C, the bathroom contributes more vapour.
Conclusion from data loggers
Observations:
- The surface relative humidity in the bedroom frequently exceeds mould growth thresholds (85% RH), with instances of condensation (100% RH).
- The dew point line often approaches or exceeds the external temperature, increasing the risk of condensation.
- There are long periods when more vapour is generated in the bedroom compared to the bathroom, likely due to limited ventilation or internal moisture sources. Spikes in bathroom vapour levels are to be expected and come from showering. I suspect the bathroom door is being left open, which is probably wise given that there is no effective ventilation.
Recommendations:
- Ventilation and airflow: Open a window vent or use a dehumidifier. Increase airflow into the front bedroom corner, such as by moving the piano and cardboard tube from the corner.
- Dehumidification: Use a dehumidifier to maintain relative humidity below 60%.
- Thermal Improvements: Consider insulation or heating to raise wall surface temperatures and reduce condensation risk.
- Moisture Source Control: Identify and mitigate sources of vapour in the bedroom, such as drying clothes indoors.
Evidence & Illustrations



In addition to the capital outlay and look, I have the following misgivings;
1) PIVs blow in cold air like an open window that can’t shut, so can be annoying to occupants, unless the air is heated, which is an expensive form of heating.
2) PIVs don’t are unlikely to be effective for the rooms that need the most ventilation; bathrooms and kitchens.
3) PIVs can effectively short circuit airflow, causing heat loss with minimal benefit, if sited near to an outlet, like a trickle vent.
4) When it is raining outside, the air contains vapour with 100%RH, so if the property is unheated for has zone close to the outside temperature, vapour will be introduced that risks mould and condensation – especially important to know when leaving the property unheated and vacant when away.
5) Overall PIVs are an untargeted, energy inefficient, expensive and therefore environmentally unfriendly way to ventilate a property, because warm internal air, which is at best averagely humid, is replaced by cold air, that needs heating and could contain vapour from rain.
Look at other surveys and you’ll see plenty of rooms with condensation and mould despite there being a PIV unit. You could say the same for dehumidifiers. But that is largely because a dehumidifier is not always used correctly, such as being left off because the tank is full. A solution is to place a dehumidifier in the kitchen constantly draining into a sink, set to 70%RH.

It is always cheaper, more efficient and better for the environment to use targeted extractor fan in bathrooms and kitchens, with background ventilation such as a trickle vent or windows open on the safety lock, and to use a dehumidifier when additional vapour removal is needed, including when away, when drying clothes or otherwise the dew point is above the outside temperature.





Explanation and recommendation for the ducting, which is likely to be the root cause of all the issues
I am not convinced that air from the bathroom ventilation is properly exiting your property. If it is exiting, the ducting appears to have been installed without properly sealing the flow of humid air using standard ventilation ducting.
I was unable to locate a visible ventilation outlet. It is possible the ducting leads up a chimney. If that is the case, you would typically expect to see ducting entering a chimney. Venting through a chimney also pose challenges, particularly if other flats are using the same chimney for ventilation. This could result in humid air from their vents being redirected into your flat.
If the vent is not exiting via a chimney, the ducting needs to pass completely through the external wall, ensuring air is expelled outdoors. This would require the ducting to pass through the living room and into the kitchen before exiting the building. The exiting boxing may need to be replaced to accommodate the new ducting. Modification to walls would likely require freeholder consent. You should involve the freeholders, who may have architectural documents that outline the ventilation system in more detail. I have reviewed the planning application but did not find any detailed plans.
Actions
To investigate further, you could cut open about 150mm x 150mm section of the boxing neatly, so as to be able to replace it, in the living room, by the kitchen wall, take photos, and determine if and where the ducting leads. I suspect it may lead nowhere.
I recommend consulting the freeholder to clarify the existing ventilation layout.
- If, as I suspect, there is no proper ventilation duct, you will need permission to install new ducting that exits through the external wall. You will need to install a properly seal duct from the vent to the outlet, ideally with right ducting.
- If ducting up the chimney is confirmed, in addition to installing a properly sealed duct may be necessary to add a back flow shutter, making sure it is closing and opening fully, when the fan is active, it is a good idea to keep access.
Given that this appears to be a defect of the building, it could be argued that the cost of rectifying the issue should be borne by the freeholder.
To keep the property dry | |
|---|---|
| Investigate the bathroom vent | |
| Concern: Bathroom air may not be exiting the property. Ducting appears unsealed or otherwise improperly installed. No Visible Outlet: Likely venting up a chimney (unconfirmed). Shared ducting with other flats risks venting air from other flats into yours. Check Ducting: Cut a 150mm x 150mm section in the living room boxing. Take photos to confirm if the ducting leads anywhere (likely it doesn’t). Next Steps: If Ducting Exits via Chimney: Install a proper duct, ideally rigid, with a back-draught shutter. You may need to replace the boxing to install a duct. Consult Freeholder: Request ventilation layout details. If No Ducting: Seek permission to install ducting through the external wall. It is difficult to put a price on it, as arguably this a defect of the freehold. Investigation will take a few hours and can be performed by a competent handyman (or woman). Cost Responsibility: Argue the freeholder should cover costs, as this is a building defect. | £500 |
| Target vapour from bathroom | |
| TIP: Keep the bathroom door closed with the fan running or window open until the humidity from the shower has subsided – typically at least 30 mins after the last shower. | |
| Target vapour from cooking with an extractor fan | |
| Consider installing a kitchen extractor fan, ducted out. | |
| Target vapour from clothes drying | |
| Use a tumble dryer (like a heat pump), dry in a vented room with the door closed (possibly a bathroom with the extractor running or window open), or use a powerful dehumidifier. Don’t dry clothes in an unventilated room. | |
| Monitor internal vapour | |
| Use devices like the ORIA Wireless Thermometer Hygrometer to monitor relative humidity and temperature near walls or ceilings, look to keep the dew point at or below the external temperature, The dew point is shown on the app (if not use https://mouldpoint.co.uk to calculate the dew point from humidity and temperature readings). Increase ventilation or dehumidification as required. Note excess ventilation results in lost energy. The cold air replacing the warm air will have a dew point that is below the outside temperature. When it is raining, the dew point will be higher, so you may need more ventilation to achieve the same reduction in dew point. In winter, there is no risk in condensation inside, if the internal dew point is below the external temperature. | |
| Use fan to expedite drying | |
| Direct a fan onto the damp patch to speed up the drying process. | £50 |
| Use a dehumidifier | |
| Maintain relative humidity, especially at night when it’s cold outside, with a dehumidifier such as: PureMate 20L/Day Portable & Compact Dehumidifier with a 6.5-litre tank (£179.99, refrigerant) Duux Bora Smart Dehumidifier (DXDH02UK, £300, refrigerant) Meaco DD8L Zambezi (£260, desiccant, best for colder environments) — Which! Best buys There are plenty of alternatives available. I choose a dehumidifier based on daily capacity, tank size, low noise, continuous drainage (pipe out), and ease of programmable functions over other considerations such as weight and aesthetics. The technology is well-established and functions similarly to fridges, with a comparable fire risk profile. If these brands are unavailable, you can confidently select another alternative. When evaluating, prioritise a minimum daily capacity of 20L and continuous drainage capability (use this to drip into a sink when away in winter). Tip: Use a dehumidifier whenever leaving a property vacant. Set it to 70%RH and drip into a sink—especially in winter. This method is more efficient than other humidity management methods, including ventilation. | £180 |
| Monitor dampness in walls | |
| Mark improvements on damp walls with a pencil line or sticky note and use a moisture meter, such as the Dr. Meter Wood Moisture Meter 2 in 1 Pin & Pinless Multifunctional Water Detector £23.99 or similar damp meter. Log and monitor the reduction in dampness to gain early confidence in these recommendations. | £23 |
| Keep objects away from walls | |
| Move the piano and carboard tube away from the wall to increase the flow of air. | |
| Check other side of damp wall | |
| Check the neighbour’s side of the damp wall in the kitchen. It would also be to know if your neighbour has similar ventilation problems. | |
| Remedial actions – estimate of costs | £753 |
